{"title":"Live Corals","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"montipora-mystic-sunset","title":"Mystic Sunset Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\" data-mce-style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003eBlue Polyp Montipora\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\" data-mce-style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Mystic Sunset at first glance looks like a Superman Montipora with reverse coloration, that being a red body and blue polyps. The polyps themselves are cool because they are half blue and half brown making a crescent shape. Frags are 1\/2\" to 3\/4\".\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: left;\" data-mce-style=\"text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThis BPK Sunset  Montipora has a burnt orange\/pink base with vivid light pink polyps. Extremely hardy and grows rather quickly. The frags of this coral are approximately 3\/4\".\u003c\/span\u003e  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e \u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Mystic Sunset Montipora","offer_id":43477884010726,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false},{"title":"BPK Mystic Sunset Montipora","offer_id":43477884043494,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-mystic-sunset-montipora-40324957503718.jpg?v=1705914441"},{"product_id":"jack-o-lantern-leptoseris","title":"Jack - O - Lantern Leptoseris","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJack - O - Lantern Leptoseris\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Jack-o-Lantern Leptoseris is well know and sought after by high end collectors. It has a bright orange body and striking green eyes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIt is easy to keep and will encrust over the rocks as it grows.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlacement: \u003c\/strong\u003eMount the Jack-O-Lantern Leptoseris Coral using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock in the lower two- thirds of the aquarium where they will receive moderate currents and low to moderate lighting. Leave space for this coral to grow and encrust the rocks around it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding: \u003c\/strong\u003eAlthough symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae hosted within the Jack-O-Lantern Leptoseris Coral supply most of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis they do benefit from supplemental feedings of Oyster-Feast, mysis shrimp, or finely chopped meaty foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting \u0026amp; Flow Requirements: \u003c\/strong\u003eThe Jack-O-Lantern Leptoseris Coral requires moderate water flow and low to moderate lighting (PAR 120-220). T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow Leptastrea Corals when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLeptoseris Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris are commonly known as a wrinkle coral but almost no one in the hobby refers to this coral by its common name. Leptoseris were made popular a few years ago when bright orange color morphs came onto the scene and blew everyone away with their intense fluorescence. They are one of the most dazzling corals under actinic lighting because in addition to their bright coloration, they almost take on a metallic appearance. Please see below for additional care tips for Leptoseris as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZzMOmUCnm8w\" title=\"Leptoseris Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris do very well in shady areas of the reef. They are commonly found under overhangs and lower reef slopes, so we recommend low lighting. Having said that, Leptoseris are highly adaptable to different lighting systems but do change colors to compensate. They do fluoresce nicely under actinic, in particular LED so as a matter of personal preference we keep them under blue lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe recommend keeping the coral in a low to medium flow area of the reef aquarium. Excessive flow could cause this particular species to become stressed and not extend fully. Lower flow also provides more opportunities for feeding.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris have small mouths and cannot feed on large particles. In our experience, Leptoseris is a challenging coral to feed and most attempts up to this point have been unsuccessful.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Genus is a great candidate for aquaculture. Leptoseris heal very quickly from cutting and their growth pattern is conducive to high productivity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34814507155618,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-jack-o-lantern-leptoseris-40321933115622.jpg?v=1705848017"},{"product_id":"jf-fender-bender-cyphastrea-1","title":"JF Fender - Bender Cyphastrea","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe JF Fender Bender Cyphastrea is one of the hottest designer corals around! The rich pink and aqua streaked base color is one of the most unique colorations we’ve seen in a cyphastrea. There’s nothing better than finding a hot coral that pops in your tank, grows fast and is easy to keep. It’s best kept in low light, low flow conditions and spreads quickly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-css=\"tve-u-1607fb2199c\" data-web-font=\"Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-css=\"tve-u-1607fb2199c\" data-web-font=\"Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif\"\u003eCyphastrea relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae. This coral benefits from the addition of phytoplankton as a food source. While the coral itself may consume some phytoplankton, the real benefit is the increased population of rotifers that feed on the phytoplankton. Rotifers make a good meal to a vast array of corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-css=\"tve-u-1607fb2199c\" data-web-font=\"Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif\"\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-css=\"tve-u-1607fb2199c\" data-web-font=\"Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif\"\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34814742921378,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-jf-fender-bender-cyphastrea-1125384232.jpg?v=1738728653"},{"product_id":"gold-blastomussa","title":"Gold Blastomussa - Australian Coral Frags","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGold Blastomussa - Aussie Coral Frag\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlastomussa Coral will bring a burst of color to any reef aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlastomussa Coral is also referred to as a Branched Cup, Pipe, or Pineapple coral. It is a \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003elarge polyp stony (LPS) coral that will form round, swollen discs when it grows. Due to its resemblance to mushroom anemones, Blastomussa corals are often confused with other brain and mushroom corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey can sting nearby corals so leave a few inches between Gonioporas and other corals. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34814871568546,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-gold-blastomussa-australian-coral-frags-40321852244198.jpg?v=1705843875"},{"product_id":"meteor-shower-cyphastrea","title":"Meteor Shower Cyphastrea (BLUE BASE)","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMeteor Shower Cyphastrea\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level: Easy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLight Level: Low - Medium\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrows well in reef aquariums. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Meteor Shower Cyphastrea is a great choice for adding a splash of color to lower flow, lower light areas of your reef aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis coral is photosynthetic but will benefit from supplemental feedings in the form of micro-plankton or foods designed for filter-feeding invertebrates. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMaintain stable recommended levels in your reef for good growth and colour.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34814910791842,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-meteor-shower-cyphastrea-40354013348070.jpg?v=1706342656"},{"product_id":"rainbow-montipora","title":"Rainbow Montipora","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"product-info-price\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper product\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"container\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" class=\"base\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eRainbow Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003eThe Rainbow Montipora is my personal favorite. It is an encrusting Montipora that is an amazing collection of colors. Frags of this coral are roughly 1\/2\"+ in diameter. It is an encrusting Montipora that is an amazing collection of colors.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA peaceful reef inhabitant, the aquacultured Certified Captive Grown Rainbow Montipora Coral will not bother other neighboring corals. However, be sure to provide ample space away from other corals as they can grow quickly under ideal conditions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" target=\"_blank\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34814928191650,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-rainbow-montipora-40350012637414.jpg?v=1706257021"},{"product_id":"rasta-zoanthids-frag","title":"Rasta Zoanthids","description":"\u003ch1\u003eRasta Zoanthids\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product-info-price\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper product\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"container\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003eOne of our best zoanthids, the Rastas are very bright and incredibly beautiful. With their red\/yellow\/green color combination, these are definitely show-quality coral. These frags have 5-6 polyps.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare level:\u003c\/strong\u003e  Medium \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low-Medium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCoral placement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Bottom \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eRastas are one of a kind, incredibly bright and beautiful Zoanthids with their Red, Yellow, Green color combination. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThey do best in low to medium light and low flow, and benefit from being fed every few weeks.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThey are smaller, sensitive zoas, and take a bit of time to adjust to a new aquarium environment. They adapt quicker if water quality is good. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePlace on bottom when newly added to acclimate to light properly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA must have coral for the Zoanthid lover.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthus Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are a large group of corals in the reef keeping hobby. They come in an incredible range of colors and patterns making them very popular with both beginner hobbyists and rare coral collectors tracking down uncommon color morphs. In terms of care, both Zoanthus and Palythoa are fairly easy to keep. They tolerate a wide range of lighting intensities and water conditions. Once settled in, zoas multiply quickly. Please see below for more care tips for Zoas and Palys as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthus Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gyhRuk74kyA\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthid Taxonomy and Identification\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus are a genus of corals within the order Zoantharia, an order it shares with\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/button-polyps-palythoa.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePalythoa\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eand\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/yellow-polyps-parazoanthus.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eParazoanthus\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e. You may have also heard zoanthus referred to as zoanthids which is correct, but if you want to be a stickler for details, the term zoanthids refers to all the corals in the order while zoanthus is specific to the genus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is quite a lot of active research on Zoanthid taxonomy and the cutting edge is DNA classification. It is not nearly as straight forward as it may seem. There is a LOT of genetic consistency so it is a chore to find small segments of DNA that are actually different enough to base a scientific classification on. Over 90% of the coral’s genome is identical so a lot of current research is delving into that. Genetic research is further complicated by the effect the environment has on the expression of the genetic code. The genes themselves don’t change but the how the organism reads the genetic code in response to the environment does so you could see two very different traits in corals originate from an identical genetic sequence. I expect quite a lot of reclassification to occur in this space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat was once 300 identified species has been whittled down to around 50-60 in the past several years depending on the criteria used to differentiate the different morphs. There are new classification insights as more genetic testing is being done, but for the purposes of this hobby-focused website, we've chosen to arbitrarily lump larger polyp individuals into Palythoa and smaller polyp specimens into Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical matter, there is some degree of fogginess you will encounter in this industry whether something is called a Zoanthus or a Palythoa because there is a wide range of physical variation within the genus. On the far ends of the spectrum the two are easy to differentiate but once you get into large polyp Zoanthus variants and smaller polyp Palythoa variants, the naming convention breaks down at the hobbyist level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePalytoxin Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore we get into the care tips for zoas, I need to address the potential toxicity of these corals. Some can contain a compound called palytoxin that is a very dangerous poison. Palytoxin is associated more with Palythoa than Zoanthus, but it is possible for zoas to have it. I don’t know if those zoas produce it themselves or acquire it from neighboring Palythoa. In the wild, palytoxin shows up in organisms that don’t actively produce it such as sponges, mussels, and starfish but live in close proximity to palythoa. It can even be found in other species up the food chain such as crabs and fish through biomagnification. I’ll touch on this again when we discuss pests, because as lethal as palytoxin is, there is no shortage of organisms that are more than happy to consume them with no ill effects.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe scientific community has been aware of palytoxin since the 1960’s but it has been used as a means of biological warfare by Polynesian cultures for much longer. There is a legend of a sacred seaweed that grew in a special pool that when applied to a warrior’s spear would bring sure death to his enemies. In 1961 researchers tracked down the fabled pool in Maui and found colonies of Palythoa toxica.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt wasn’t until the 1990’s that the mechanism of action was identified. Palytoxin binds to the sodium potassium pump on the membrane of cells. If you don’t remember what this is from high school biology, the sodium potassium pump is REALLY important to ion movement in and out of the cell and affects all sorts of biological processes so any interruption of that royally screws things up. It is why the symptoms of palytoxin poisoning are seemingly all-inclusive. Initially there was some skepticism regarding this mechanism of action but it was confirmed in 1995 in a pretty clever study. They exposed yeast cells to palytoxin because yeast cells don’t have a sodium potassium pump. Those yeast cells were unaffected but when given to yeast cells that researchers genetically modified to encode a sheep’s sodium potassium pump, all the cells died.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIn practice you are not likely to get palytoxin poisoning just by having zoas or palythoa in your home aquarium. It resides in the flesh of the coral so it becomes an issue when the colony is damaged. People have gotten sick from scrubbing palythoa off of rocks or propagating a colony with a band saw that would send the particles airborne and then inhaled. People have also gotten sick by boiling rocks with colonies on it because that too sends the compounds airborne and unlike many other proteins, palytoxin does not lose its toxicity when heated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are not as demanding as other corals when it comes to lighting. They can be kept under a wide variety of lighting types, and are tolerant of both low and high light conditions. It is always wise however to acclimate new arrivals in lower light areas because it is far more likely to be damaged from overexposure than starve from underexposure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus by their very shape invite detritus accumulation and a zoa colony that is dirty is very different than one that is kept clean. The buildup of detritus can slow a colony’s growth or even cause it to die back.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eStrong water flow helps keep detritus buildup to a minimum as well as flushing away waste that the colony generates.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhen designing flow patterns for this coral I like to provide strong consistent flow with short bursts of very strong flow. If you do jot have controllable pumps to achieve this it can be done manually with a turkey baster. Once a day you can squirt water at the colony to dislodge any buildup. I use just enough force to close the polyps up.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIf you decide to go this route only do this with established colonies that are well attached. If you have a freshly glued frag of zoas they might get blown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile both Zoanthus and Palythoa polyps derive much of their energy from the products of their zooxanthellae, they do have the ability to capture prey. Palythoa seem to feed much more readily than their Zoanthus counterparts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe try to feed a blend of small frozen foods such as the fines from mysis shrimp, cyclops plankton, and frozen rotifers. We have also tried feeding a variety of powdered dry plankton. Your mileage may vary depending on the species of zoa you have and also how you are doing the feeding. As I mentioned they are not nearly as good a feeder as palythoa so they might not be able to grab chunks of food out of the water. I try to turn the pumps off and then give them a good dusting of food and let them sit for about 10 min before restarting the pumps. Take a look at the feeding video below.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/wDabUHE73PY\" title=\"Zoanthid Polyp Feeding\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Zoas and Palys for the most part have been propagated extensively in captivity and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. Take a look at the propagation video below for tips on how to frag Palythoa and Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthid and Palythoa Coral Propagation\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/pe0AJVpl480\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815106613410,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-rasta-zoanthids-40350021910758.jpg?v=1706256797"},{"product_id":"red-stylocoeniella","title":"Red Stylocoeniella","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRed Stylocoeniella is not nearly as common as most montipora species however the care is similar to montipora.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"entry-title\" itemprop=\"name headline\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStylocoeniella is A Great Reef Aquarium Coral\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815227396258,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-red-stylocoeniella-1125384259.jpg?v=1738726659"},{"product_id":"reverse-sunset-montipora","title":"Reverse Sunset Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eReverse Sunset Montipora\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eReverse Sunset Montipora\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is a beautiful \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003eencrusting montipora\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e known for its vibrant contrasting coloration. It provides a brilliant orange to any reef aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815286870178,"sku":"Reverse Sunset Montipora","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-reverse-sunset-montipora-40350215536870.jpg?v=1706261535"},{"product_id":"reverse-superman-montipora","title":"Reverse Superman Montipora","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReverse Superman Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Superman Montipora is one of the more popular encrusting montiporas due to its  striking contrast in colors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815352701090,"sku":"Reverse Superman Montipora","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-reverse-superman-montipora-1125384241.jpg?v=1738728103"},{"product_id":"skittle-bomb","title":"WWC Skittle Bomb Cyphastrea","description":"\u003cp\u003eSkittle Bomb is truly for the rare coral collector.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGeneral info about Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"more_detail\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"more_detail\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"more_detail\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn general, species from Cyphastrea are fast growing when you compare it to other mound-building corals. They usually grow in an encrusting form and can visually see a difference in size within 6 months. Newbies can cultivate Cyphastrea since they are easy to care and maintain. They can grow in a wide range of water condition and are noted to survive even in low nutrient level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea, they are predominatly colored violet with green and yellow polyps. This are the water parameters for cultivating Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCalcium: 420 - 440 ppm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAlkalinity: 2.8 - 3.39 MEQ\/L (8 - 9.5 dKH)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhosphates: \u0026lt; 0.1 ppm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNitrates: \u0026gt; 10 ppm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMagnesium: 1260\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e-\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e1350\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003epH: 8.1 - 8.4\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"subListHeading1\"\u003eTemperature: \u003c\/span\u003e75° - 80° F (23° - 27° C)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"subListHeading1\"\u003eSalinity \/ Specific Gravity:\u003c\/span\u003e 1.024 - 1.026 but ideally at 1.025 for maximum growth\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003eincase you have an algal outbreak in your tank, all you need to do is to gradually increase the magnesium level at 1400 - 1600 ppm. We also recommend doing a water change to combat the negative effects, especially if the nitrate level exceed 10 ppm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSkittles Bomb Cyphastrea Diet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"diet_nutrition\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile they enjoy the photosynthetic benefits brought by the symbiotic zooxanthellae living inside them, Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea still needs supplemental feeding such as mysis, artemia, copepods and other nauplii.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFragging \/ Propagating Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"determining_sex\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA mature tank is highly recommended in propagating Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea. In setting them in the tank, you need to place them over an exposed rock where they can start their encrusting process. Putty or gel glue can be used to firmly mount them.  For best results, we recommend you place them in the lower portion of the tank where there is moderate water flow and moderate lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFlow \/ Lighting Requirements for Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"breeding\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"subListHeading1\"\u003eThe Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea DOES NOT require strong water flow and intense lighting. Usually placing them on the lower level of the tank would do the trick.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSkittles Bomb Cyphastrea Origin\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"origination\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea is widely spread throughout the waters of the Indo-Pacific Ocean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCaution Should be Taken with Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"caution\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDo not place the Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea on the upper part of the tank. By doing so, you will expose them to high water flow and intense lighting, which in effect, causes a stunted growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to Acclimate Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"acclimation_process\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSkittles Bomb Cyphastrea are purely marine, therefore, salinity must be maintained thoroughly at 1.024 to 1.026 s\u003cspan class=\"subListHeading1\"\u003epecific gravity. But for best results, maintan the salinity at 1.205 specific gravity.\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eThey should be placed in their permanent position immediately after acclimation to facilitate the encrusting process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eStinging Tentacles on Skittles Bomb Cyphastrea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"venomous\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSkittles Bomb Cyphastrea have a semi-aggressive behavior and may invade nearby polyps from other coral species by extendng their tentacles. So, proper spacing in between corals should be maintained.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"BPK - Skittle Bomb Chyphastrea","offer_id":43456509575398,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true},{"title":"WWC - Skittle Bomb Chyphastrea","offer_id":43456509608166,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-bpk-skittle-bomb-chyphastrea-wwc-skittle-bomb-chyphastrea-40353988313318.jpg?v=1706340676"},{"product_id":"sunburst-montipora","title":"Sunburst Montipora","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"product-info-price\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper product\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"container\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eSunburst Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003eThis Montipora has a burnt orange\/pink base with vivid yellow\/orange polyps. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eExtremely hardy and grows rather quickly. Montipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815560351906,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-sunburst-montipora-40350626414822.jpg?v=1706272999"},{"product_id":"sunny-d-zoanthids","title":"Sunny D Zoanthids","description":"\u003ch1\u003eSunny D Zoas - Frag\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare level:\u003c\/strong\u003e  Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low-Medium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCoral placement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Bottom \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSunny D's are a beautiful bright and \u003cspan\u003eeasy to keep Zoa. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA great choice for the beginner\u003c\/span\u003e one of a kind, incredibly bright and beautiful Zoanthids.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese Zoas have a metallic orange face with a yellow and gold highlighted skirt. The mouth is a bright green.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey do best in low to medium light and low flow, and benefit from being fed every few weeks.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePlace on bottom when newly added to acclimate to light properly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA must have coral for the Zoanthid lover.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrice is per polyp.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815615402146,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-sunny-d-zoanthids-40354197995750.jpg?v=1706354536"},{"product_id":"wwc-beach-bum-montipora","title":"WWC - Beach Bum Montipora","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWWC - Beach Bum Montipora a brilliant addition to any reef aquarium. Their appearance and coloration is usually mottled in nature.  They have corallites that are considered one of the smallest as far as the family of corals is concerned. Their walls usually has an elaborate structure and has a porous texture.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815779766434,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-beach-bum-montipora-1125384262.jpg?v=1738726675"},{"product_id":"wwc-cherry-tree-montipora","title":"WWC - Cherry Tree Montipora","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCherry Tree Montipora variety has been aquacultured for several years and is considered a staple SPS \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eby many reefkeepers.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCherry Tree Montipora are considered to be a fast growing and hardy SPS coral. Cherry Tree montipora is an encrusting montipora that will adhere itself to rock, overflow covering or glass.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815880954018,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-cherry-tree-montipora-1125384465.jpg?v=1738717145"},{"product_id":"wwc-grafted-montipora","title":"WWC - Grafted Montipora","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis incredible Grafted Montipora is the result of hybridizing two color morphs of Montipora capricornis. Marbling will continue and intensify as the coral grows. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34815935545506,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-grafted-montipora-40354011381990.jpg?v=1706342118"},{"product_id":"wwc-pandoras-box-zoanthids","title":"WWC - Pandoras Box Zoanthids","description":"\u003ch1 class=\"tab-content\" itemprop=\"description\" style=\"display: block;\"\u003ePandoras Zoanthids\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"tab-description\" class=\"tab-content\" itemprop=\"description\" style=\"display: block;\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCare level:\u003c\/strong\u003e  Easy \u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCoral placement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Any \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low-Medium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Rate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fast\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePandora are one of the easiest Zoas to keep. They grow quick and can cover a rock in no time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePlace on bottom when newly added to acclimate to light properly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrice is per Frag. Each Frag has 3-5 polyps.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34816016089250,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-pandoras-box-zoanthids-40354087305446.jpg?v=1706350221"},{"product_id":"wwc-slime-ball","title":"WWC - Slimeball Anacropora","description":"\u003ch1\u003eWWC - Slime Ball Anacropora\u003c\/h1\u003e\nAn absolute glow stick for your aquarium that will grow rapidly under medium to high light. \n\u003cp class=\"_28cEs\" data-hook=\"description\"\u003eIt is a relatively fast grower, growing in a tree sort of formation. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"_28cEs\" data-hook=\"description\"\u003eIt enjoys high light and high flow, around 350 to 400 par depending on what lighting you are running of course.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFrag Size: 2 - 3 cm \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThink of frags as Anacropora seeds. Fragments of anacropora are mounted onto small stones and grown in aquariums. We grow and frag the Slimeball Anacropora coral here at BPK. We believe that frags and aqua-cultured corals are the future of the aquarium hobby.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlacement: \u003c\/strong\u003eMount the Slimeball Anacropora coral using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock or ledge in the aquarium where it will receive direct flow and light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding: \u003c\/strong\u003eBPK recommends feeding acropora corals with Oyster-Feast and\/or Roti-Feast. Target feeding gets the corals fed using less food while keeping your nitrates and phosphates lower.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting \u0026amp; Flow Requirements: \u003c\/strong\u003eThe Slimeball Anacropora coral coral requires moderate to high water flow and bright lighting (PAR 300-450) to maintain its color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow acropora when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eEasy in SPS tank!\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting Requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eModerate to high (PAR 300-450)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eModerate to high\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAggressiveness:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003ePeaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRange:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eIndo-Pacific, Grown in California\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFamily:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eAcroporidae\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Conditions:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates \u0026lt;10ppm, Phosphates, \u0026lt; .10ppm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Chemistry: \u003c\/strong\u003eIt is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDosing:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eVivid Aquariums uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, \u0026amp; Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, \u0026amp; Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"_28cEs\" data-hook=\"description\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"_28cEs\" data-hook=\"description\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlways light acclimate your corals slowly to high levels of light by placing them away from the lights and then slowly moving them to their preferred spot.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAnacropora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis article is all about Anacropora, common name is briar coral, but I’ve never heard anyone call them that. The Anacropora is one of those corals where the scientific name is the de facto common name. Having said that, “briar coral” is a somewhat fitting name because as the colony gets larger the branches fuse together resembling a briar patch. As fas as classification goes, Anacropora is part of the Acroporidae family along with popular corals such as Acropora and Montipora. I always thought they looked like a more branching version of a Montipora setosa, especially when you look at how the polyps are spaced out on the body and how there are no terminal polyps at the tips of each branch like an Acropora would have.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Anacropora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/CZX_hKETiNs\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI would recommend either medium to light light, anything from 100 PAR to 300 PAR. This coral will change color depending on the type and intensity of lighting provided. More light = lighter colony color, medium light = more rich colors brown polyp color which is lost in high light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe main concern is to avoid shocking a new addition with too much light right away. This is true for pretty much all newly added corals. Far more damage is done by initial overexposure to light rather than too little light. If you have a particularly high intensity lighted tank, let’s say with an average of 200+ PAR, just take the requisite steps to allow the coral to slowly adapt to those lighting conditions. If you see it start to fade or worse yet bleach, find a spot under an overhand low in the tank or a spot off axis from the source of light where the intensity is lower.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cimg style=\"float: none;\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"265\" height=\"30\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"270\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" height=\"30\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"274\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" height=\"31\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our detailed lighting video.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/uBZhjPuqpUo\" title=\"The Deep Dive into Reef Aquarium Lighting\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI would recommend medium to high flow, but again pay attention to the size and density of the colony. As the colony grows and starts to bramble, less and less flow get to the interior polyps so it may be necessary to add flow as time goes on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMy worry is if there isn’t enough water flow you might run into issues where nutrients can’t get to the middle of the colony and waste can’t get out leading to a collapse from the inside out essentially.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Chemistry\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnacropora is a very fast growing coral which is both a positive and negative. Fast growing SPS make maintaining water chemistry more of a moving target. Keeping constant levels of calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium is not terribly difficult early on, but as colonies grow to 10 or even 100 times their original size they soak up a much higher volume of major and minor elements, so what worked year 1 might not work so well in year 2.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce the colonies start growing, keep an eye out on these parameters and remember that consistency is what to shoot for. Here at Tidal Gardens we try to keep water chemistry close to natural sea water levels. People like to keep their levels slightly higher than NSW because it provides a slight buffer in the event of a dip, but it’s more of a crutch because again consistency is the goal rather than a particular value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the video below, I cover three different aquariums that utilize different techniques to manage their chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Reefing Success 3 Ways - Let's Compare\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/nTg1XqsO7-w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn addition to lighting, coral get nutrients from feeding. Anacropora like many other SPS aren’t ones to put on spectacular feeding displays and many successful hobbyists don’t make any special effort to feed them. That said, if you wanted to be proactive about feeding take a look at very small meaty fare such as rotifers and consider amino acids as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34816073236642,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-slimeball-anacropora-1125384254.jpg?v=1738727022"},{"product_id":"wwc-space-monkey-favia","title":"WWC - Space Monkey Favia","description":"\u003ch1\u003eWWC Space Monkey Favia - Frag\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #353c41; font-family: Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline !important; float: none;\"\u003eFavia's adapt to most lighting conditions but grows best under low to moderate light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #353c41; font-family: Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline !important; float: none;\"\u003eThis coral grows quickly once adjusted and will benefit from dissolving coral food like Reef Roids, Min S etc in the aquarium once or twice a week.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare level:\u003c\/strong\u003e  Medium \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low-Medium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Medium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCoral placement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Middle\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrag Size: 1-2 cm.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlways light acclimate your corals slowly to high levels of light by placing them away from the lights and then slowly moving them to their preferred spot.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34816170524834,"sku":"","price":300.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-space-monkey-favia-40354073837798.jpg?v=1706348601"},{"product_id":"gold-leptoseris","title":"Gold Leptoseris","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eGold Leptoseris\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLeptoseris are commonly known as a wrinkle coral but almost no one in the hobby refers to this coral by its common name. Leptoseris were made popular a few years ago when bright orange color morphs came onto the scene and blew everyone away with their intense fluorescence. They are one of the most dazzling corals under actinic lighting because in addition to their bright coloration, they almost take on a metallic appearance\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis Leptoseris has a brilliant golden yellow color , of the different varieties we currently carry, this one is likely the most rare\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLeptoseris Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris are commonly known as a wrinkle coral but almost no one in the hobby refers to this coral by its common name. Leptoseris were made popular a few years ago when bright orange color morphs came onto the scene and blew everyone away with their intense fluorescence. They are one of the most dazzling corals under actinic lighting because in addition to their bright coloration, they almost take on a metallic appearance. Please see below for additional care tips for Leptoseris as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Leptoseris Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZzMOmUCnm8w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLocation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIndo-Pacific - Pacific – Indonesia and the Great Barrier Reef.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris do very well in shady areas of the reef. They are commonly found under overhangs and lower reef slopes, so we recommend low lighting. Having said that, Leptoseris are highly adaptable to different lighting systems but do change colors to compensate. They do fluoresce nicely under actinic, in particular LED so as a matter of personal preference we keep them under blue lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe recommend keeping the coral in a low to medium flow area of the reef aquarium. Excessive flow could cause this particular species to become stressed and not extend fully. Lower flow also provides more opportunities for feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris have small mouths and cannot feed on large particles. In our experience, Leptoseris is a challenging coral to feed and most attempts up to this point have been unsuccessful.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Genus is a great candidate for aquaculture. Leptoseris heal very quickly from cutting and their growth pattern is conducive to high productivity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e#bpkaquaculturecorals\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK Farm","offers":[{"title":"1 frag (2 cm)","offer_id":39661525106850,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 frags ( 2cm each)","offer_id":39661525139618,"sku":"","price":400.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-farm-live-stock-gold-leptoseris-1125384223.jpg?v=1738729013"},{"product_id":"meteor-shower-cyphastrea-1","title":"Meteor Shower Cyphastrea (GREEN BASE)","description":"\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCyphastrea are one of the hottest corals in reef keeping right now. Just a few years ago they were relatively unknown and not widely available for purchase but that changed in recent years as more and more people successfully propagated the various color morphs. For years the prevalent color morph was the red and blue meteor shower variant, but now there are so many that you could make an entire reef out of just different types of Cyphastrea and have your bases covered for color and growth patterns. It isn’t difficult to see just why Cyphastrea captures the heart of so many reef keepers. They are an attractive coral with uniquely spaced polyps, and the fact that they are being aquacultured has all kinds of benefits for both overall sustainability and robustness of the individual corals\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"BPK Farm","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":39661705691298,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-farm-live-stock-meteor-shower-cyphastrea-green-base-40354023669990.jpg?v=1706343918"},{"product_id":"primary-montipora","title":"Primary Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eGreen Plating Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" class=\"base\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGreen Plating Montipora (Montipora capricornis) are gorgeous bold green coral plates. They grow quickly, extending outwards, providing shade and variation in the aquascape. Plating Montipora need moderate to high flow rates and lighting. Their need for stability means it is suitable for more experienced hobbyists. Plating Montiporas may benefit from being target fed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eRed Plating Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis Red Plating Montipora is possibly a M. capricornis. They form a plating shape that extends outward from the aquascape and may shade corals underneath. Frags of this coral are roughly 1” in diameter and may ship loose (without a frag plug) depending on size. The edges may get bumped in shipping but the coral recovers fast.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" class=\"base\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003ePurple Plating Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Purple Montipora Capricornis is an SPS (small polyp stony) coral that forms large spiraling leafy plates. This variety is deep purple in color with purplish blue polyps. Also called a Vase coral by some, montipora corals come in many colors and grow into the most beautiful shapes. Aquacultured Montipora Capricornis are one of the easier SPS corals to grow and maintain. They grow fairly quick in an established reef aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" target=\"_blank\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e","brand":"BPK Farm","offers":[{"title":"Green Montipora","offer_id":43442400788710,"sku":"Green Monti","price":50.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false},{"title":"Red Montipora","offer_id":43442400755942,"sku":"Red Monti","price":50.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false},{"title":"Purple Montipora","offer_id":43442400821478,"sku":"Purple Monti","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-farm-live-stock-primary-montipora-40326124404966.jpg?v=1705926759"},{"product_id":"wwc-golden-eye-chalice","title":"WWC - Aussie Golden Eye Chalice","description":"\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"easytabs-text\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWWC - Aussie Golden Eye Chalice\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis stunning chalice has a red fire base that is covered in sparkles. Its eyes are a vivid Yellow\/gold. Truly a stunning chalice that grows fairly fast. Frags of this beautiful chalice will be roughly 3\/4\".\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eChalice Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice Corals are a broad collection of corals that are loosely jumbled together. Several different genera of corals are represented ranging from Echinopora, Oxypora, Mycedium, and even Lithophyllon. As such, care requirements are going to be generalized more than other corals because these are very different corals that all get lumped in together. Please see below for more care tips for Chalice Corals as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Chalice Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-D0WnU8-wZA\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Metal Halide lighting or a large bank of high output fluorescent can sometimes be tolerated but typically these corals do not fare well under extremely intense light. If not provided proper lighting, the colors may fade. Chalice corals tend to have some of the most impressive fluorescence in the reef keeping hobby which can be best viewed under actinic LED's. The Chalices we grow here at Tidal Gardens look best in the winter when light is less intense. In the summer they tend to brown out considerably but will return to more attractive coloration once in a stable home reef aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Flow that is too low can allow detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Flow that is too strong may knock a chalice over because the shape of the colony acts as a sail that can catch the water current.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice coral relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae, but are surprisingly one of the most aggressive eaters. We have tried feeding it a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so it never appears that they are eating however in our time-lapse videos we can see that they eat large amounts of food. If you are curious about making your own food for both fish and coral, take a look at our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/make-your-own-fish-food\/\"\u003eHome Made Food Article!\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. Chalices are diverse and some varieties propagate better than others.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-et-tabs-width=\"461\" id=\"4629095874648\" data-et-ao=\"1\" data-et-wt=\"0\" data-et-flx=\"0\" data-et-amp=\"1\" data-et-sta=\"0\" data-et-cbr=\"3\" data-et-cbw=\"1\" data-et-auto-accordion=\"0\" data-et-min-width=\"0\" class=\"easytabs-container tab-widget-4629095874648 easytabs-inited\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"easytabs-holder easytabs-accordion\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" role=\"tablist\" class=\"easytabs-contents\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-et-handle=\"tabs-approx-size\" data-et-marker=\"tabs-wwc-aussie-golden-eye-chalice-s0\" class=\"easytabs-content-item easytabs-content-item-static easytabs-active\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" aria-hidden=\"false\" aria-expanded=\"true\" aria-labelledby=\"easytabs-slide-label-4629095874648-0\" role=\"tabpanel\" class=\"easytabs-content-holder\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-et-handle=\"tabs-care-level\" data-et-marker=\"tabs-wwc-aussie-golden-eye-chalice-s2\" class=\"easytabs-content-item easytabs-content-item-static easytabs-before-active\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" tabindex=\"-1\" aria-selected=\"false\" aria-labelledby=\"easytabs-slide-label-4629095874648-1\" role=\"tab\" class=\"easytabs-accordion-item\" data-mce-tabindex=\"-1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" id=\"easytabs-slide-label-4629095874648-1\" class=\"easytabs-header-text ui-tabs-anchor js-no-transition\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-et-handle=\"tabs-care-level\" data-et-marker=\"tabs-wwc-aussie-golden-eye-chalice-s5\" class=\"easytabs-content-item easytabs-content-item-static easytabs-active easytabs-before-active\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" aria-hidden=\"true\" aria-expanded=\"false\" aria-labelledby=\"easytabs-slide-label-4629095874648-2\" role=\"tabpanel\" class=\"easytabs-content-holder\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43456671056102,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wwc-aussie-golden-eye-chalice-40354078458086.jpg?v=1706349099"},{"product_id":"wild-red-people-eater-zoanthids","title":"Wild Red People Eater Zoanthids","description":"\u003ctable width=\"750\" border=\"0\" cellspacing=\"0\" cellpadding=\"0\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eRed People Eaters Zoanthid Polyps\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eare by far one of the more popular species of Zoanthidae found within the aquarium hobby. They have a large oral disc that because of its large size causes many hobbyists to confuse them with similarly colored Palythoa species,(Zoanthus gigantus). Red People Eaters Zoanthid Polyps are an excellent coral species for a wide variety of aquarium sizes and hobbyist skill levels, as they are equally at home in the beginners nano aquarium as that of the advanced reef aquarium hobbyists full blown reef tank. They are easy to feed, and easy to propagate. Red People Eater Zoanthids are considered relatively slow growers, but overall a very hardy zoanthid species. Like all of our polyps they are aquacultured specimens, many generations removed from the original wild starter colonies.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eKeeping your parameters at the standard level will help these corals stay happy. Set your salinity between 1.024 and 1.026. Your pH should range around 8.3 and your temperature should stay between 77 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eAggressiveness\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003eThey can be aggressive if they get close to another coral. Polyps will crowd out other corals by stinging them as they grown in and around another coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater flow\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003eThey do well in moderate to strong water flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003eThey require medium to strong lighting. If a Par meter is available the appropriate lighting level is anywhere from a Par 100 all the way to a Par 250. For lighting spectrum use between a 14-20K color spectrum for your bulbs for best coloration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePlacement\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eRed People Eaters Colony Polyps will continue to spread or colonize nearby rocks, they can be separated from other coral species by providing gaps between the rock aqua-scaping, in order to create a boundary to limit the carpeting or horizontal growth of the Polyps. Proper placement is important when keeping Polyps with other corals, as Polyps will crowd out other corals around them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003eRed People Eaters Colony Polyps receive the vast majority of their nutrition through the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae contained within the coral. They receive other nutrients from dissolved minerals that they filter from the water currents. They will also benefit from the addition of reef supplements containing calcium, magnesium, iodine and trace elements. They can also be periodically offered meaty foods like micro-plankton, baby brine shrimp and other similar fare.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eCaution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\" color=\"#000000\" size=\"-1\" face=\"Arial\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial;\"\u003eSome Zoanthid's secrete a poison through their mucus known as palytoxin. Palytoxin is extremely dangerous, and it affects humans in a very adverse way. The toxin enters the system via open wounds, ingestion, and injection. What is highly recommended with these Zoanthids and Palythoa when handling, is to wear protective gear, such as gloves and goggles, and to use tongs or tweezers to avoid any contact with skin.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43456766771430,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-wild-red-people-eater-zoanthids-40354298659046.jpg?v=1712085196"},{"product_id":"war-paint-favia","title":"War Paint Favia","description":"\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"tt-collapse-title\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"tt-collapse-content\"\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003eWar Paint Favia\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe War Paint Favia is a deep scarlet color with green eyes and an amazing splash of Purple across its base.\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eFrags of this coral are about 3\/4\" to 1\" in diameter with multiple eyes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFavia \u0026amp; Favites Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to diversity, it is hard to think of a more visually diverse group of corals than Favia. These brain corals develop multiple growth forms and come in just about every color and pattern imaginable. The diversity however is a little bit deceptive. Have you ever got the feeling that the term Favia covered a lot of corals that looked somewhat different? You are not alone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFavia brain corals were one of the largest categories of large polyp stony corals in the reef aquarium hobby. At one time there were nearly 100 species of Favia but now that number dwindled down to only two, Favia fragum, and Favia gravida, both of which are Caribbean species. That means that there are essentially zero Favia brains in the reef aquarium hobby because stony corals from the Caribbean are illegal to collect. So what happened to all these species of Favia? Coral taxonomists over the years reclassified them into other genera as more information was uncovered. Most of the corals that were once classified as Favia are now Dipsastraea, Goniastrea, Coelastrea, or Favites.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/MyiYPjCBlCw\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\" care=\"\" coral=\"\" brain=\"\" closed=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSo why we we still use the term “Favia?” We feel it is more important to use the term that the community is searching for when they are looking for help with their coral. In a way, the term Favia in the reef aquarium has turned into a term of art describing a group of “closed brain corals” similar to “Chalice Corals,” the difference being one is actually a scientific genus and the other is a common name. Like chalice corals, this collective of closed brain corals is ripe for misidentification especially considering many of the images online were published with either correct-at-the-time labeling or were totally misidentified from the start. It makes checking what you have in your tanks difficult. Naming conventions aside, let’s get into the husbandry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe primarily keep Favia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. We have kept them in higher lighting but they did not appear to appreciate it and were always at risk of bleaching out. If you have a colony of Favia and want to experiment with higher light, remember that it can be a risk, so be prepared to move it into a shadier region of the tank at the first signs of trouble. Remember that a coral can live for a long time in lighting conditions that are too dim, but they will not last long in lighting conditions that are too bright.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eAs for how the lighting spectrum affects their coloration, most Favia stay pretty consistent and are not likely to change color dramatically with changes in lighting spectrum. You may see a subtle change comparing a specimen grown primarily under daylight vs blues however it won’t completely swap out an entire color palate like some corals are capable of. Because there are so many corals under this collective Favia umbrella, some may be very fluorescent which is a joy to look at under full actinic light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are some that consider water flow more important to coral health than any other parameter. It may be true in some cases, but I think that it is less of a factor in Favia health compared to other corals. Favia are tolerant to a wide range of flow patterns and adjusting flow specifically for Favia may be fruitless. I like to try and provide a very middle-of-the-road low to medium flow. Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Too much flow and you run the risk of damaging the coral. You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor feeding purposes I like being able to shut off all the flow for about 20-30 min to allow the colony to react to the food and consume it. Even a small amount of flow during spot feeding sessions can waste a lot of food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike most coral, Favia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. There are a variety of frozen fish foods available that make outstanding meals for Favia. We like to feed a mixture of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, and squid with vitamin additives and highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA). The size of the food must be small enough that the polyp can fully ingest it. Favites typically have smaller mouths than Favia.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFavites are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. In fact, Favites may have more aggressive behavior than the larger Favias. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defense against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematcysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Nw_q-6Eumwo\" title=\"Coral Aggression \u0026amp; Thoughts on Coral Placement\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAquaculture prospects for Favia are going to vary on a Genus to Genus basis. This is one aspect where lumping them all into one category doesn’t quite work out so well. Some varieties like Favites grow incredibly fast. Other varieties like Coelastrea are one of the slowest. That is the major hurdle with long term aquaculture - the growth rate of these corals. They can be cut pretty easily and heal well from cutting across the board but some might not be the best candidates for long term commercial aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"LPS Propagation - Favia Brain Coral\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/hse-zEoXfos\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5Ds R and 100mm macro lens. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43456784695526,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-war-paint-favia-1125384250.jpg?v=1738727390"},{"product_id":"undata-montipora","title":"Undata Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora Undata\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora undata are a thick plating and encrusting species of Montipora. This coral usually needs to encrust a solid base on the rockwork before it starts to plate, The strain of Montipora Undata we grow at New Dawn Aquaculture has purplish-gray skin with baby blue polyps. Undata is a fast-growing, encrusting, and plating coral that will eventually form a large spiral vase shading the area below it. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWhile there are many plating species of montipora such as M. foliosa, M. friabilis, M. delicatula, etc… Most are called M. capricornis by hobbyists due to the challenges in proper identification. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThese corals often form large colonies quickly in an sps aquarium due to their fast growth rates. We recommend you give them plenty of space as they will be aggressive towards their neighbours.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable data-mce-fragment=\"1\" width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Care Level\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Medium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Lighting\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Medium - High\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Water Flow\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Medium - Strong\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"solid\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora is the second most species-rich genus after Acropora. Corals of this Genus come in many different growth formations and colourations. Most strains of Montipora we see in the hobby are branching, encrusting, or plating varieties. We also see some species that are a combination of the three, such as Montipora spongodes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThey have similar care requirements to Acropora, however, they tend to be more forgiving of improper husbandry. When provided with less than ideal water chemistry, flow, or lighting, Montipora tends to lose colour and recede slowly rather than undergoing RTN (Rapid Tissue Necrosis) which is more common with Acropora. This allows hobbyists the catch and fix any issues in their system before losing the coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWater Chemistry\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora should be kept in a mature reef aquarium that has stable water parameters. While we have our preferred parameters for Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium, Montipora will do far better in your system if you just focus on keeping the water chemistry stable. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eIf your Alkalinity, Calcium, or Magnesium is out of line, our recommendation is to get it back to your target levels as slowly as possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThe parameters we aim for are:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable data-mce-fragment=\"1\" width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Alkalinity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e 8.3 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Calcium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e 440 ppm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e Magnesium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e 1350 ppm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWe maintain these levels by use of\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca data-mce-fragment=\"1\" href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/neptune-systems\/products\/dos-dosing-and-fluid-metering-system\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/neptune-systems\/products\/dos-dosing-and-fluid-metering-system\"\u003edosing pumps\u003c\/a\u003e, with Brightwell Aquatics\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca data-mce-fragment=\"1\" href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/salt_additives\/products\/reef-code-a\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/salt_additives\/products\/reef-code-a\"\u003eReef Code A\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eand\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca data-mce-fragment=\"1\" href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/salt_additives\/products\/reef-code-b\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/ndaquaculture.ca\/collections\/salt_additives\/products\/reef-code-b\"\u003eReef Code B\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eIt's important to understand that these are the levels that we aim for in our SPS system. However, that doesn't mean they are the right levels for your system. All aquariums are different and your system may naturally fall on a different balance. You're better off working with the balance your system tends towards than trying to force the same levels that we run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eFlow\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eIn terms of flow, Montipora polyps should constantly be getting blown around in various directions. This is a good indication that you have the coral in strong randomized flow. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eGood flow is also important to ensure the underside of the colony remains healthy. Often as Montipora colonies grow larger the sides that stop receiving light will lose their polyp extension and their colour. While this is inevitable to some extent, we find that stronger flow will keep the underside of the colony looking healthier and more colourful.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLighting\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMontipora are light-loving corals. We always recommend placing them high up on the rockwork where they will receive plenty of light. We aim to keep most of our Montipora in 200-300 PAR.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eToo little light can cause Montipora to turn brown, if this happens raise the coral in your tank or increase your light intensity. This is a slow process, however, assuming it has good flow and your water chemistry is stable it will regain its colour.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43457005289702,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-undata-montipora-1125384249.jpg?v=1738727387"},{"product_id":"toxic-waste-leptoseris","title":"Toxic Waste Leptoseris","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eLeptoseris Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris corals are a small polyp stony coral that is a relative newcomer in the reef aquarium market. The common name for Leptoseris is wrinkle coral but just about everyone in the hobby refers to this coral by its scientific name rather than its common name.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen Leptoseris first arrived there were only a few color variants and at that time, Leptoseris were very expensive. Luckily, Leptoseris are one of the fastest growing corals. Stores and hobbyists propagated them extensively thus increasing both the supply and varieties for sale. The number of varieties was key because Leptoseris are not frequently imported compared to other stony corals. Due to sustained aquaculture efforts, the uncommon color morphs that were imported became readily available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe first Leptoseris corals introduced had some variant of orange coloration. Some were solid orange, while others had an orange body with highlights around the mouths. Over the past several years, more color morphs made their way into the market place. Our favorites here are a bright yellow variant known as a 24K Leptoseris. It will be interesting to see if there are more color morphs that will turn up in the future.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne attractive aspect of their appearance is their fluorescence. Not every coral is loaded with fluorescent proteins so they may have a pleasant color under daylight lighting but they do not glow under actinic lighting, so they will appear drab. Leptoseris however have some of the most intense fluorescence. This is great because some of the colors are uncommon to find fluorescence in such as the yellows, oranges, and reds. In addition to their exotic color palate, Leptoseris have a subtle pinstripe pattern that gives them an almost metallic appearance when viewed from afar. When they grow out, the coral encrusts over the surface of the rock and can make for a bright and beautiful landscape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZzMOmUCnm8w\" title=\"Leptoseris Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe have kept Leptoseris in different lighting intensities here at BPK. The best results as far as growth and coloration are concerned were achieved under moderate lighting intensities, between 75-125 PAR. Leptoseris are fairly adaptable to different lighting so dialing in an exact light is not something I would spend a lot of time doing, but long term lighting that is too dim might dull their color and lighting that is too bright risks burning the coral.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you start to see the coral starting to turn lighter and bleach out, the most likely culprit is inappropriately high lighting intensity however there may be other causes that we will discuss later. When in doubt, favor lower lighting intensities until it is clear that the coral is demanding more. The lowest lighting we have grown this coral in was around 40 PAR. It grows fine in those conditions, but the appearance is not as dazzling as colonies that are grown in higher light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris do not shift colors though. Even under suboptimal lighting they maintain consistent color so there is no risk of a bright orange colony suddenly turning a dusky green.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs far as lighting spectrum, my favorite blend is roughly a 12,000K light so if you can imagine a blend of ATI blue plus and coral plus T5 bulbs that is what I shoot for. That is my go-to favorite, but Leptoseris’ amazing fluorescence is one of the major selling points so I also like to give it plenty of time under just actinic lighting for viewing purposes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please check out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eBlog all about Lighting\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eor see our detailed lighting video below.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003ciframe title=\"The Deep Dive into Reef Aquarium Lighting\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/uBZhjPuqpUo\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris appreciate low to medium flow. There are two things that I am looking to accomplish with flow for this coral. The first is to give it enough flow to keep it clean. Although Leptoseris is an encrusting coral, they can develop irregular folds and bowl-like shapes that can trap detritus if not given enough water movement. Detritus build-up will cause the coral to die back where it collects. Providing elevated flow levels prevent this accumulation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is such a thing as too much flow for this coral. If you have a powerhead blowing right at Leptoseris from short range, it may kill off some of the tissue at that point of contact. What I look for is just a little bit of inflation and extension. That may sound non-intuitive talking about inflation in a small polyp encrusting coral, but a healthy and happy Leptoseris can swell slightly, especially towards the edge of the colony. It is a very subtle thing I look for and the opposite appearance is a warning sign that something is wrong. I don’t like seeing Leptoseris drawn in tight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemember to pay attention to maintaining consistency of water movement as time goes on. Unfortunately, this is a moving target.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two things over time that dramatically affect the performance of water flow systems. The first is the growth of the colony itself. Successfully growing corals comes with the downside of the corals cutting down the flow significantly. As colonies get larger and larger, it is important as hobbyists to pay close attention to changing flow demands and consider adding more flow or pruning colonies back to allow more space for water to flow through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSecondly, other organisms such as algae, sponges, and other sessile invertebrates love to grow in and around the aquarium’s pumps and plumbing. For this reason I recommend taking apart pumps and powerheads regularly for servicing. It does not take very much growth or blockages to greatly limit water flow output.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProviding periodic low flow is also beneficial for this coral for the purposes of feeding. Spot feeding Leptoseris is not something that a lot of hobbyists do, but I am all for it if people want to be proactive. They are not a particularly aggressive feeder, and if the colony only receives strong flow it won’t get a good opportunity to capture food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e  \u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris are photosynthetic so they will get the majority of their nutrition from the lighting provided. This next discussion is for hobbyists that want to proactively feed their corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris do not put on dramatic feeding displays like some large polyp stony corals. To see any kind of feeding behavior you practically need a macro lens and run a time lapse. When corals like Leptoseris take a long time to ingest food it makes it more likely for other tank inhabitants to come steal the food away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDespite not being the most aggressive feeders in the world, there are three great sources of food that work well for broadcast feeing. These three are amino acids, small zooplankton, and simply having fish present as a nitrogen source.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStarting with amino acids, they are simple organic compounds that play a major role in building proteins as well as other biological functions at the cellular level. There are a little over 20 different types of amino acids but in most animals, there are only 9 or so that their bodies cannot synthesize and must be taken in by feeding. Corals regularly take in available amino acids from the water column so it is easy to provide them with adequate quantities by broadcast feeding an amino acid solution. They are available from any number of commercially available reef supplement manufacturers. This may be the easiest way to feed Leptoseris because as long as amino acids are bioavailable in the water column, the corals will soak them up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNext up, small zooplankton include organisms such as rotifers and cyclops plankton. There are two kinds, frozen and powdered. The frozen variety makes an orange cloud when thawed introduced into the tank. Sometimes rotifers are included in frozen blends or coral specific frozen foods. There are also powdered coral foods that contain zooplankton. The presence of rotifers in the water is immediately apparent to the corals because many of them will open up and initiate their feeding behavior. For what it is worth, I notice a more pronounced feeding behavior with the powder supplement than when feeding the frozen food alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLast point on nutrition, having fish in and around coral colonies tends to have a positive effect. Fish provide a steady dose of nitrogen and phosphorous which in small quantities is helpful for their nutritional needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough coral nutrition is important, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. Most of the nutrition Leptoseris needs will come from the lighting and they will be absorbing other nutrients from the water. If you are going to experiment with broadcast feeding or target feeding, start slowly with it and don’t expect explosive changes overnight. Having some phosphate and nitrate in the water is beneficial but overfeeding can cause these parameters to rise to dangerous levels that can be hard to remedy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eWater Cleanliness\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePhosphate and Nitrate are great general measurements of water cleanliness however corals do need to have some present for their nutrition because those are compounds that they cannot get from photosynthesis alone. If Nitrate levels get too high corals may react negatively by taking on drab coloration or suddenly dying back. If Phosphate levels are too high, it may feed into an unwanted algae bloom.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere can be trouble as well if these two parameters are too low. Often I see Leptoseris struggle in systems that too aggressively implement carbon dosing or GFO. The corals first take on a shrunken emaciated look and then they start dying off. For Leptoseris specifically, I would rather see Nitrate and Phosphate levels on the high side than barely detectable because we have kept them in systems with very high nutrient with no difficulties.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eWater Chemistry\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause Leptoseris are stony corals, and fast growing stony corals at that, there are three major chemical parameters that are needed to power that skeletal growth. These parameters are Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStarting first with Calcium… Calcium is one of the major ions in saltwater. In the ocean, its level hovers around 425 parts per million (ppm). As a coral grows calcium is absorbed from the water and used to forms its calcium carbonate skeleton.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/JGCi39crhdI\" title=\"Reef Chemistry: Calcium Level Testing\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlkalinity on the other hand is not a particular ion, but rather a general figure of carbonate availability in the water. Technically it is the amount of acid required to lower the pH of saltwater to the point bicarbonate turns into carbonic acid. If you have more alkalinity, it can soak up more acid. Less alkalinity and you have less buffering capacity making the tank more susceptible to chemical changes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice alkalinity tends to be the parameter that fluctuates the most, so if you cannot manage to test all three, Calcium, alkalinity, AND magnesium and had to choose just one test to perform, test for alkalinity. In the wild, the alkalinity of the water is around 8-9 dkh though some aquarists like to overload this parameter a little and keep their tanks around 10 or 11 dkh. There is some belief that having elevated calcium and alkalinity in the water contributes to faster stony coral growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Reef Chemistry: Magnesium Level Testing\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/mDpnpnfksSU\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat should give you a little bit of background on the chemical parameters to keep an eye on. Remember though that the growth rate of Leptoseris may make chemical stability more difficult to pin down, especially with large colonies. In general fast growing SPS soak up calcium, alkalinity, magnesium and trace elements at a much faster rate. At first just regular water changes may be sufficient to keep up with the chemistry demands of the corals, but as the biomass increases, you may have to work in supplementation such as kalkwasser, calcium reactors, or two part dosing… or some combination of the three.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/fkpBOi9yMTI\" title=\"Reef Chemistry: Phosphate Level Testing\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003eCoral Aggression\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLet’s move onto the topic of aggression. Leptoseris have to be given plenty of space because not only are they fast growing and can encroach on other corals, they send out sweeper tentacles. They are not hyper aggressive like Galaxea, but they have these little sweepers that can extend about an inch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe video below provides an overview of the different manifestations of coral aggression and ideas on how to mitigate some of the risks inherent in keeping corals in small quarters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Coral Aggression \u0026amp; Thoughts on Coral Placement\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Nw_q-6Eumwo\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce Leptoseris get going, they have an impressively fast growth rate. They are easy to break apart either by bone cutters or by band saw, however they can be a little tricky at times to glue down. We use dollar store gel super glue and just use extra when gluing them down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eSummary\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo what kind of tank is Leptoseris best suited for? I see this coral being used as a ground cover in SPS dominated tanks as well as mixed reefs with other stony corals. It is a very fast growing coral and can quickly cover rock work basically acting as a much more exotic replacement for coralline algae. Alternatively, it can be used to cover custom made substrates whether that be interesting rock scapes to give it a branching look or sculptures even if the hobbyist is looking to add some novelty to the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne interesting design choice I thought about was with a customer the other day. He wanted to make a coral tree-themed tank where the rock work had a thick central trunk that would extend out with Tonga branch rock and create a canopy. Leptoseris could make an interesting cover coral on the trunk part because it is fairly good in low light and there are enough color variations to provide either a muted color as to not distract from the limbs and leaves of the tree OR you could go the complete opposite direction and use a bright yellow Leptoseris to make the trunk look like it is made of gold. You could even go with a mix of different leptoseris colors to make a painted tree look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat pretty much does it for Leptoseris. Hopefully you found this article helpful. Until next time, happy reefing!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43458751201510,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-toxic-waste-leptoseris-40350637293798.jpg?v=1706273716"},{"product_id":"superman-favia","title":"Aussie War Favia","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eAussie War Favia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThe Aussie war Favia is a deep scarlet color with green eyes \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eand an amazing blend of purple rings \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eand a splash of light green across its base. Frags of this coral are about 3\/4\" to 1\" in diameter with multiple eyes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Care%20level\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare level\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Temperament\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Lighting\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Low\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Water%20Flow\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater flow\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Low\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Placement\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlacement\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Bottom\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Common%20Name\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon Name\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Favia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #000000;\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\"\u003e\u003ca style=\"color: #000000;\" href=\"https:\/\/gtareef.ca\/pages\/coral-care-requirements\/#Alias%20Name\" rel=\"null\" aria-describedby=\"a11y-new-window-message\" data-mce-style=\"color: #000000;\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlias Name\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e: Superman Favia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFavia \u0026amp; Favites Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to diversity, it is hard to think of a more visually diverse group of corals than Favia. These brain corals develop multiple growth forms and come in just about every color and pattern imaginable. The diversity however is a little bit deceptive. Have you ever got the feeling that the term Favia covered a lot of corals that looked somewhat different? You are not alone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFavia brain corals were one of the largest categories of large polyp stony corals in the reef aquarium hobby. At one time there were nearly 100 species of Favia but now that number dwindled down to only two, Favia fragum, and Favia gravida, both of which are Caribbean species. That means that there are essentially zero Favia brains in the reef aquarium hobby because stony corals from the Caribbean are illegal to collect. So what happened to all these species of Favia? Coral taxonomists over the years reclassified them into other genera as more information was uncovered. Most of the corals that were once classified as Favia are now Dipsastraea, Goniastrea, Coelastrea, or Favites.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/MyiYPjCBlCw\" title=\"\" closed=\"\" brain=\"\" coral=\"\" care=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSo why we we still use the term “Favia?” We feel it is more important to use the term that the community is searching for when they are looking for help with their coral. In a way, the term Favia in the reef aquarium has turned into a term of art describing a group of “closed brain corals” similar to “Chalice Corals,” the difference being one is actually a scientific genus and the other is a common name. Like chalice corals, this collective of closed brain corals is ripe for misidentification especially considering many of the images online were published with either correct-at-the-time labeling or were totally misidentified from the start. It makes checking what you have in your tanks difficult. Naming conventions aside, let’s get into the husbandry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe primarily keep Favia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. We have kept them in higher lighting but they did not appear to appreciate it and were always at risk of bleaching out. If you have a colony of Favia and want to experiment with higher light, remember that it can be a risk, so be prepared to move it into a shadier region of the tank at the first signs of trouble. Remember that a coral can live for a long time in lighting conditions that are too dim, but they will not last long in lighting conditions that are too bright.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eAs for how the lighting spectrum affects their coloration, most Favia stay pretty consistent and are not likely to change color dramatically with changes in lighting spectrum. You may see a subtle change comparing a specimen grown primarily under daylight vs blues however it won’t completely swap out an entire color palate like some corals are capable of. Because there are so many corals under this collective Favia umbrella, some may be very fluorescent which is a joy to look at under full actinic light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are some that consider water flow more important to coral health than any other parameter. It may be true in some cases, but I think that it is less of a factor in Favia health compared to other corals. Favia are tolerant to a wide range of flow patterns and adjusting flow specifically for Favia may be fruitless. I like to try and provide a very middle-of-the-road low to medium flow. Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Too much flow and you run the risk of damaging the coral. You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor feeding purposes I like being able to shut off all the flow for about 20-30 min to allow the colony to react to the food and consume it. Even a small amount of flow during spot feeding sessions can waste a lot of food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike most coral, Favia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. There are a variety of frozen fish foods available that make outstanding meals for Favia. We like to feed a mixture of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, and squid with vitamin additives and highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA). The size of the food must be small enough that the polyp can fully ingest it. Favites typically have smaller mouths than Favia.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-2-3.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFavites are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. In fact, Favites may have more aggressive behavior than the larger Favias. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defense against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematcysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Coral Aggression \u0026amp; Thoughts on Coral Placement\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Nw_q-6Eumwo\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAquaculture prospects for Favia are going to vary on a Genus to Genus basis. This is one aspect where lumping them all into one category doesn’t quite work out so well. Some varieties like Favites grow incredibly fast. Other varieties like Coelastrea are one of the slowest. That is the major hurdle with long term aquaculture - the growth rate of these corals. They can be cut pretty easily and heal well from cutting across the board but some might not be the best candidates for long term commercial aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/hse-zEoXfos\" title=\"LPS Propagation - Favia Brain Coral\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5Ds R and 100mm macro lens. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43458881552614,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-aussie-war-favia-1125384219.jpg?v=1738729377"},{"product_id":"sunset-montipora","title":"Sunset Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eSunset Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis Montipora is a encrusting variety with an interesting color combination. The base is a nice orange color accentuated with neon green polyps. Frags are roughly 3\/4\" to 1\" in diameter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cem\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cem\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cem\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43458921005286,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-sunset-montipora-1125384246.jpg?v=1738727743"},{"product_id":"spiderman-montipora","title":"Spiderman Montipora","description":"\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eAquaculture:\u003c\/strong\u003e We grow and frag the Spiderman Montipora coral here at BPK. We believe that frags and aqua-cultured corals are the future of the aquarium hobby.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePlacement: \u003c\/strong\u003eMount the Spiderman Montipora coral using IC gel glue, or putty, on an exposed rock or ledge in the aquarium where it will receive direct flow and light. Spiderman Montipora coral will encrust the rock and makes a great accent coral. If you are worried about it \"growing out of control\" just mount your frag on a larger \"grow out\" rock 3\"-6\" in size that is easy to remove from the aquarium to frag. This method prevents encrusting montipora coral from covering your main rock structure if you don't want them to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLighting \u0026amp; Flow Requirements: \u003c\/strong\u003eThe Spiderman Montipora requires moderate to high water flow and moderate to bright lighting (PAR 250-450) to maintain its color. T5's, Metal Halides, or LED's can all grow montipora when the proper PAR levels are provided. We recommend a 14-20K color spectrum for best coloration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eEasy in SPS tank!\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLighting Requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eModerate to high (PAR 250-450)\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eModerate to high\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eAggressiveness:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003ePeaceful\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRange:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eIndo-Pacific, Grown in California\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eFamily:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eMontipora tuberculosa\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWater Conditions:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e75-80° F; sg 1.024-1.026 (1.025 is ideal); pH 8.1-8.4 Ca 420-440 ppm, Alk 8-9.5 dKH, Mg 1260-1350, Nitrates \u0026lt;10ppm, Phosphates, \u0026lt; .10ppm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWater Chemistry: \u003c\/strong\u003eIt is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh - run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg. Nitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDosing: \u003c\/strong\u003eBPK\u003cspan\u003e uses and recommends dosing pumps to automate the dosing of additives and keep your levels more constant. A dosing pump can alleviate the chore of manually dosing your aquarium with Ca, Alk, \u0026amp; Mg 2,3, or 4 times per week and will benefit your aquarium by keeping your levels constant through frequent small additions of Ca, Alk, \u0026amp; Mg. Our tanks all progressed when we switched from 3 manual dosings per week to 70 automatic dosings per week and we got a lot more work done.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43460683399398,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-spiderman-montipora-1125384244.jpg?v=1738727733"},{"product_id":"snake-skin-chalice","title":"Snake Skin\/ Grape Crush Chalice","description":"\u003ch3 data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSnake Skin Chalice\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThis stunning chalice has a deep blue\/purple\/green mixed base with extremely vivid green streaking across the entirety of the coral. Frags of this chalice will be roughly 3\/4\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eChalice Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice Corals are a broad collection of corals that are loosely jumbled together. Several different genera of corals are represented ranging from Echinopora, Oxypora, Mycedium, and even Lithophyllon. As such, care requirements are going to be generalized more than other corals because these are very different corals that all get lumped in together. Please see below for more care tips for Chalice Corals as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Chalice Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-D0WnU8-wZA\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Metal Halide lighting or a large bank of high output fluorescent can sometimes be tolerated but typically these corals do not fare well under extremely intense light. If not provided proper lighting, the colors may fade. Chalice corals tend to have some of the most impressive fluorescence in the reef keeping hobby which can be best viewed under actinic LED's. The Chalices we grow here at Tidal Gardens look best in the winter when light is less intense. In the summer they tend to brown out considerably but will return to more attractive coloration once in a stable home reef aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Flow that is too low can allow detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Flow that is too strong may knock a chalice over because the shape of the colony acts as a sail that can catch the water current.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice coral relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae, but are surprisingly one of the most aggressive eaters. We have tried feeding it a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so it never appears that they are eating however in our time-lapse videos we can see that they eat large amounts of food. If you are curious about making your own food for both fish and coral, take a look at our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/make-your-own-fish-food\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eHome Made Food Article!\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. Chalices are diverse and some varieties propagate better than others.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43460697981158,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-snake-skin-grape-crush-chalice-1125384243.jpg?v=1738727730"},{"product_id":"seasons-greetings-montipora","title":"Seasons Greetings Montipora","description":"\u003ch1 class=\"page-title\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eSeasons Greetings Montipora\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis awesome Montipora has a clean bright green base and bright red polyps. Frags are roughly 3\/4\"-1\".\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eMontipora Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora are one of the most diverse SPS corals. They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors and have been a staple in SPS dominated aquariums as well as mixed reef tanks. As for care, they can be sensitive to changes in tank parameters as well as demanding of both high flow and high light for peak health and coloration. Please see below for more care tips for Montipora as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/c5xFaL0Tb0w\" title=\"Montipora Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora love light. Intense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting, a large bank of high output fluorescent or LED's. If not provided proper lighting, the colors of Montipora may fade. Like other SPS such as Acropora, Montipora can change colors dramatically depending on the type of light provided. Expect some changes in color when moving Montipora from system to system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"31\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"274\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"31\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"279\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"31\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"274\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate to High water movement is recommended. Like most SPS, reef hobbyists have been keeping Montipora in high flow aquariums for ages with a high degree of success. High water flow helps sweep away detritus from the coral as well as bring vital nutrients to their polyps.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but to a lesser degree may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column. Here at Tidal Gardens we do not go out of our way to feed Montipora, but they may benefit from a light dusting of rotifers or phytoplankton.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMontipora is a diverse genus of small polyp stony corals. They come in a variety of shapes and colors depending on where they were collected. Provided with proper conditions, they grow quickly and display wonderful coloration. They are much hardier than Acropora in that they do not bleach as readily, and are more resistant to coral diseases. Be careful what you place Montipora near. They do not have powerful nematocysts and will lose just about every territorial battle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43460732453094,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-seasons-greetings-montipora-40350328848614.jpg?v=1706262760"},{"product_id":"scrambled-egg-zoanthids","title":"Scrambled Egg Zoanthids","description":"\u003ch1 class=\"page-title\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eScrambled Egg Zoanthids\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Scrambled Egg Zoas have blue\/purple mouths ringed in a very curious orange color and finish off with purple skirts tipped in yellow\/orange. Frags of these Zoas will be 2-3 polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthus Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are a large group of corals in the reef keeping hobby. They come in an incredible range of colors and patterns making them very popular with both beginner hobbyists and rare coral collectors tracking down uncommon color morphs. In terms of care, both Zoanthus and Palythoa are fairly easy to keep. They tolerate a wide range of lighting intensities and water conditions. Once settled in, zoas multiply quickly. Please see below for more care tips for Zoas and Palys as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthus Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gyhRuk74kyA\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthid Taxonomy and Identification\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus are a genus of corals within the order Zoantharia, an order it shares with\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/button-polyps-palythoa.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePalythoa\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eand\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/yellow-polyps-parazoanthus.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eParazoanthus\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e. You may have also heard zoanthus referred to as zoanthids which is correct, but if you want to be a stickler for details, the term zoanthids refers to all the corals in the order while zoanthus is specific to the genus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is quite a lot of active research on Zoanthid taxonomy and the cutting edge is DNA classification. It is not nearly as straight forward as it may seem. There is a LOT of genetic consistency so it is a chore to find small segments of DNA that are actually different enough to base a scientific classification on. Over 90% of the coral’s genome is identical so a lot of current research is delving into that. Genetic research is further complicated by the effect the environment has on the expression of the genetic code. The genes themselves don’t change but the how the organism reads the genetic code in response to the environment does so you could see two very different traits in corals originate from an identical genetic sequence. I expect quite a lot of reclassification to occur in this space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat was once 300 identified species has been whittled down to around 50-60 in the past several years depending on the criteria used to differentiate the different morphs. There are new classification insights as more genetic testing is being done, but for the purposes of this hobby-focused website, we've chosen to arbitrarily lump larger polyp individuals into Palythoa and smaller polyp specimens into Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical matter, there is some degree of fogginess you will encounter in this industry whether something is called a Zoanthus or a Palythoa because there is a wide range of physical variation within the genus. On the far ends of the spectrum the two are easy to differentiate but once you get into large polyp Zoanthus variants and smaller polyp Palythoa variants, the naming convention breaks down at the hobbyist level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePalytoxin Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore we get into the care tips for zoas, I need to address the potential toxicity of these corals. Some can contain a compound called palytoxin that is a very dangerous poison. Palytoxin is associated more with Palythoa than Zoanthus, but it is possible for zoas to have it. I don’t know if those zoas produce it themselves or acquire it from neighboring Palythoa. In the wild, palytoxin shows up in organisms that don’t actively produce it such as sponges, mussels, and starfish but live in close proximity to palythoa. It can even be found in other species up the food chain such as crabs and fish through biomagnification. I’ll touch on this again when we discuss pests, because as lethal as palytoxin is, there is no shortage of organisms that are more than happy to consume them with no ill effects.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe scientific community has been aware of palytoxin since the 1960’s but it has been used as a means of biological warfare by Polynesian cultures for much longer. There is a legend of a sacred seaweed that grew in a special pool that when applied to a warrior’s spear would bring sure death to his enemies. In 1961 researchers tracked down the fabled pool in Maui and found colonies of Palythoa toxica.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt wasn’t until the 1990’s that the mechanism of action was identified. Palytoxin binds to the sodium potassium pump on the membrane of cells. If you don’t remember what this is from high school biology, the sodium potassium pump is REALLY important to ion movement in and out of the cell and affects all sorts of biological processes so any interruption of that royally screws things up. It is why the symptoms of palytoxin poisoning are seemingly all-inclusive. Initially there was some skepticism regarding this mechanism of action but it was confirmed in 1995 in a pretty clever study. They exposed yeast cells to palytoxin because yeast cells don’t have a sodium potassium pump. Those yeast cells were unaffected but when given to yeast cells that researchers genetically modified to encode a sheep’s sodium potassium pump, all the cells died.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIn practice you are not likely to get palytoxin poisoning just by having zoas or palythoa in your home aquarium. It resides in the flesh of the coral so it becomes an issue when the colony is damaged. People have gotten sick from scrubbing palythoa off of rocks or propagating a colony with a band saw that would send the particles airborne and then inhaled. People have also gotten sick by boiling rocks with colonies on it because that too sends the compounds airborne and unlike many other proteins, palytoxin does not lose its toxicity when heated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are not as demanding as other corals when it comes to lighting. They can be kept under a wide variety of lighting types, and are tolerant of both low and high light conditions. It is always wise however to acclimate new arrivals in lower light areas because it is far more likely to be damaged from overexposure than starve from underexposure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus by their very shape invite detritus accumulation and a zoa colony that is dirty is very different than one that is kept clean. The buildup of detritus can slow a colony’s growth or even cause it to die back.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eStrong water flow helps keep detritus buildup to a minimum as well as flushing away waste that the colony generates.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhen designing flow patterns for this coral I like to provide strong consistent flow with short bursts of very strong flow. If you do jot have controllable pumps to achieve this it can be done manually with a turkey baster. Once a day you can squirt water at the colony to dislodge any buildup. I use just enough force to close the polyps up.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIf you decide to go this route only do this with established colonies that are well attached. If you have a freshly glued frag of zoas they might get blown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile both Zoanthus and Palythoa polyps derive much of their energy from the products of their zooxanthellae, they do have the ability to capture prey. Palythoa seem to feed much more readily than their Zoanthus counterparts.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe try to feed a blend of small frozen foods such as the fines from mysis shrimp, cyclops plankton, and frozen rotifers. We have also tried feeding a variety of powdered dry plankton. Your mileage may vary depending on the species of zoa you have and also how you are doing the feeding. As I mentioned they are not nearly as good a feeder as palythoa so they might not be able to grab chunks of food out of the water. I try to turn the pumps off and then give them a good dusting of food and let them sit for about 10 min before restarting the pumps. Take a look at the feeding video below.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/wDabUHE73PY\" title=\"Zoanthid Polyp Feeding\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Zoas and Palys for the most part have been propagated extensively in captivity and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. Take a look at the propagation video below for tips on how to frag Palythoa and Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthid and Palythoa Coral Propagation\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/pe0AJVpl480\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43462742245606,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-scrambled-egg-zoanthids-40354280374502.jpg?v=1706357237"},{"product_id":"rose-gold-chyphastrea","title":"Rose Gold Cyphastrea","description":"\u003ch1\u003eRose Gold Cyphastrea\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIt’s rare to find a cyphastrea with such unique corals like this. This aptly named cyphastrea doesn’t just sport beautiful deep hues, it also glows incredibly brightly under LED’s!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eCyphastrea Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCyphastrea are sometimes referred to as a Meteor Coral however most reef aquarists today simply refer to them by their scientific name.  The most common color variant of Cyphastrea is a blue base with red polyps called a Meteor Shower Cyphastrea.  It turns out though that there are many rare color variants of this beautiful coral that are every bit as spectacular.  Cyphastrea are a very low light coral and do poorly when exposed to high light.  In our systems at Tidal Gardens, we try to find the dimmest locations to keep them. Please see below for additional care tips for Cyphastrea as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/7Jf4b46ymK8\" title=\"Cyphastrea and Astreopora\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCyphastrea does not require as much light as some other corals. In fact, they tend to do very well in extremely low light conditions. In our experience this coral does poorly in medium to high light reef aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCyphastrea relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae. This coral may benefit from the addition of phytoplankton as a food source. While the coral itself may consume some phytoplankton, the real benefit is the increased population of rotifers that feed on the phytoplankton. Rotifers make a good meal to a vast array of corals. If phytoplankton is not readily available, you may attempt to feed the coral finely ground meaty foods. The food should almost have a paste-like consistency before being administered.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43463130284262,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-rose-gold-cyphastrea-1125384252.jpg?v=1738727396"},{"product_id":"red-leptoseris","title":"Pink Flamingo Leptoseris","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"page-main\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"XFWPLCI\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThe Pink Flamingo Leptoseris has clean vivid bright pink coloration. Of the various color morphs of Leptoseris, this one is highly sought after albeit more slow growing. Frags of this coral are between 1\/2\" to 3\/4\" in diameter.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eLEPTOSERIS CARE\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris are commonly known as a wrinkle coral but almost no one in the hobby refers to this coral by its common name. Leptoseris were made popular a few years ago when bright orange color morphs came onto the scene and blew everyone away with their intense fluorescence. They are one of the most dazzling corals under actinic lighting because in addition to their bright coloration, they almost take on a metallic appearance. Please see below for additional care tips for Leptoseris as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-youtube\"\u003e\u003ciframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZzMOmUCnm8w\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"UC6LSSV\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003eLOCATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIndo-Pacific - Pacific – Indonesia and the Great Barrier Reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"DF64RTO\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column-group\" data-background-images=\"{}\" data-content-type=\"column-group\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-grid-size=\"12\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"EVN80RB\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column-line\" data-content-type=\"column-line\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"LAO1OH8\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column\" data-content-type=\"column\" data-appearance=\"full-height\" data-background-images=\"{}\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"D60E2AX\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris do very well in shady areas of the reef. They are commonly found under overhangs and lower reef slopes, so we recommend low lighting. Having said that, Leptoseris are highly adaptable to different lighting systems but do change colors to compensate. They do fluoresce nicely under actinic, in particular LED so as a matter of personal preference we keep them under blue lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"39\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"330\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"36\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"334\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg height=\"39\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"338\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\nhttps:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/mp4\/sps\/leptoseris\/leptoseris-pink-flamingo.mp4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe recommend keeping the coral in a low to medium flow area of the reef aquarium. Excessive flow could cause this particular species to become stressed and not extend fully. Lower flow also provides more opportunities for feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003eFEEDING\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptoseris have small mouths and cannot feed on large particles. In our experience, Leptoseris is a challenging coral to feed and most attempts up to this point have been unsuccessful.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ccenter\u003e\u003cimg height=\"127\" width=\"489\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/feeding\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" alt=\"Feeding\"\u003e\u003c\/center\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003ePROPAGATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Genus is a great candidate for aquaculture. Leptoseris heal very quickly from cutting and their growth pattern is conducive to high productivity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/tg-bullet-lrg.png\" height=\"30\" width=\"30\" alt=\"\" align=\"left\"\u003e \u003cb\u003eACCLIMATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"category-view\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"category-description\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/corals\/sps\/cactus-corals-pavona.html\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43463822082278,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-pink-flamingo-leptoseris-40350173528294.jpg?v=1706260816"},{"product_id":"red-blastomussa","title":"Red Blastomussa Wellsi","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRed Blastomussa Wellsi\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Blastomussa wellsi has a clean red body. We have farmed this strain for quite a while. This WYSIWYG frag is a single large polyp.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eBlastomussa Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are an interesting stony coral because from afar they resemble mushroom corallimorphs. They are a relatively easy coral to care for with modest requirements for both flow and light. In fact, we have found they tend to do best in low light conditions. They are also easy to feed and later propagate making them a great choice for reef aquarists looking to try some of the more exotic large polyp stony corals. Please see below for additional care tips for Blastomussa as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"A secret crush on Blastomussa Pineapple Corals\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gwJu2kKOFNU\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are one of the few corals that appreciate very dim light. We have seen them expand better and take on much more vibrant colors under subdued lighting while struggling greatly under bright lights. When overexposed portions of their polyp may become unnaturally inflated or even develop bubbles inside their flesh. If you have a reef tank with modest lighting, Blastomussa may be right up your alley.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Blastomussa do not seem particularly picky on the type of flow they receive. We have kept them in both low and strong flow reef aquariums without significant differences in health.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike many of our other LPS, we strongly believe that feeding is a major key to the long term success of keeping Blastos. Blastomussa can be fed a mix of meaty foods such as pieces of krill or mysis shrimp.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of propagation, Blastomussa have been successfully fragmented and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43463889879270,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-red-blastomussa-wellsi-40357755257062.jpg?v=1706456069"},{"product_id":"red-green-chalice","title":"Red Green Chalice","description":"\u003ch1\u003eRed Green Chalice\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou will receive one frag of the item listed. These Red Green Chalice frags are over 1.5\" wide, circular, well-grown out, and ready for any display tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLike all the corals currently listed from PetStore, this specimen is an aquacultured coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIt is very important that you are aware of the care requirements of these corals before ordering. Please take some time to read some information from a few sources.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis item is a \"stock item\" meaning the coral you receive may not be the exact one in the picture, but a clone similar in appearance. Sometimes we include images of our mother colonies as well to give an idea of what the corals will grow into under proper care. The approximate size range may also vary between individual specimens.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eChalice Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice Corals are a broad collection of corals that are loosely jumbled together. Several different genera of corals are represented ranging from Echinopora, Oxypora, Mycedium, and even Lithophyllon. As such, care requirements are going to be generalized more than other corals because these are very different corals that all get lumped in together. Please see below for more care tips for Chalice Corals as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Chalice Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-D0WnU8-wZA\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Metal Halide lighting or a large bank of high output fluorescent can sometimes be tolerated but typically these corals do not fare well under extremely intense light. If not provided proper lighting, the colors may fade. Chalice corals tend to have some of the most impressive fluorescence in the reef keeping hobby which can be best viewed under actinic LED's. The Chalices we grow here at Tidal Gardens look best in the winter when light is less intense. In the summer they tend to brown out considerably but will return to more attractive coloration once in a stable home reef aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Flow that is too low can allow detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Flow that is too strong may knock a chalice over because the shape of the colony acts as a sail that can catch the water current.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChalice coral relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae, but are surprisingly one of the most aggressive eaters. We have tried feeding it a number of different types of food ranging from frozen foods to pellet foods. Chalices do not have pronounced polyp extension so it never appears that they are eating however in our time-lapse videos we can see that they eat large amounts of food. If you are curious about making your own food for both fish and coral, take a look at our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/make-your-own-fish-food\/\"\u003eHome Made Food Article!\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-3.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. Chalices are diverse and some varieties propagate better than others.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43464317632742,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-red-green-chalice-40350066311398.jpg?v=1706258602"},{"product_id":"purple-green-blastomussa-wellsi","title":"Purple \u0026 Green Blastomussa Wellsi","description":"\u003ch1\u003ePurple \u0026amp; Green Blastomussa Wellsi\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis rare color morph of the Purple \u0026amp; Green Blastomussa Wellsi has a dark purple body and a bright splash of green across its face. Frags will be approximately 3\/4\" when fully open with several polyps.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eBlastomussa Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are an interesting stony coral because from afar they resemble mushroom corallimorphs. They are a relatively easy coral to care for with modest requirements for both flow and light. In fact, we have found they tend to do best in low light conditions. They are also easy to feed and later propagate making them a great choice for reef aquarists looking to try some of the more exotic large polyp stony corals. Please see below for additional care tips for Blastomussa as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gwJu2kKOFNU\" title=\"A secret crush on Blastomussa Pineapple Corals\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are one of the few corals that appreciate very dim light. We have seen them expand better and take on much more vibrant colors under subdued lighting while struggling greatly under bright lights. When overexposed portions of their polyp may become unnaturally inflated or even develop bubbles inside their flesh. If you have a reef tank with modest lighting, Blastomussa may be right up your alley.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Blastomussa do not seem particularly picky on the type of flow they receive. We have kept them in both low and strong flow reef aquariums without significant differences in health.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike many of our other LPS, we strongly believe that feeding is a major key to the long term success of keeping Blastos. Blastomussa can be fed a mix of meaty foods such as pieces of krill or mysis shrimp.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-3-4.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of propagation, Blastomussa have been successfully fragmented and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468572262630,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-purple-green-blastomussa-wellsi-40349957292262.jpg?v=1706256225"},{"product_id":"purple-with-lime-green-polyps-blastomussa-merletti","title":"Purple with Lime Green Polyps Blastomussa Merletti","description":"\u003ch1\u003ePurple with Green Polyps Blastomussa Merletti\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOur Purple with Green Polyps Blastomussa Merletti has a purple body and a splash of green across its face and an amazing blend of lime green polyps. Frags will be roughly 4-5 heads.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eBlastomussa Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are an interesting stony coral because from afar they resemble mushroom corallimorphs. They are a relatively easy coral to care for with modest requirements for both flow and light. In fact, we have found they tend to do best in low light conditions. They are also easy to feed and later propagate making them a great choice for reef aquarists looking to try some of the more exotic large polyp stony corals. Please see below for additional care tips for Blastomussa as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gwJu2kKOFNU\" title=\"A secret crush on Blastomussa Pineapple Corals\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are one of the few corals that appreciate very dim light. We have seen them expand better and take on much more vibrant colors under subdued lighting while struggling greatly under bright lights. When overexposed portions of their polyp may become unnaturally inflated or even develop bubbles inside their flesh. If you have a reef tank with modest lighting, Blastomussa may be right up your alley.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Blastomussa do not seem particularly picky on the type of flow they receive. We have kept them in both low and strong flow reef aquariums without significant differences in health.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike many of our other LPS, we strongly believe that feeding is a major key to the long term success of keeping Blastos. Blastomussa can be fed a mix of meaty foods such as pieces of krill or mysis shrimp.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-3-4.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of propagation, Blastomussa have been successfully fragmented and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468585926886,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-purple-with-lime-green-polyps-blastomussa-merletti-40350004084966.jpg?v=1706257016"},{"product_id":"polkaroo-leptastrea","title":"Polkaroo Leptastrea","description":"\u003ch1\u003ePolkaroo Leptastrea\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003eThis Leptastrea has bright yellow eyes with green tentacles. This variety is very hardy and tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. Frags of this coral are roughly 3\/4\"-1\".\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLeptastrea Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea are a relatively new species to the hobby and have never been a popular coral to the mainstream reef aquarist. They are a subtle short tentacled encrusting coral that appeal to veteran hobbyists that are looking for something different in their tanks. Novelty is a big thing when you have been in this hobby a long time and tanks start to suffer from sameness-syndrome. Sometimes a change of pace is necessary and uncommon corals like Leptastrea are just what the doctor ordered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Leptastrea Coral Care Tips\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Sug6MTUNj1A\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrior to 2012 Leptastrea were assigned to the Family Faviidae but they have since been reclassified as Scleractinia incertae sedis which is Latin for ‘uncertain placement’. This classification change is due to the Faviidae group being reanalyzed and it showing that it was actually a large group of corals without a common ancestry that had been grouped together and is now being separated out. Such is the nature of coral classifications – they are ever changing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lighting requirements for Leptastrea depend in large part on the particular color morph. Generally speaking, Leptastrea do not like direct, intense light. Their color will be the best indicator of the position they prefer with green morphs tending to do better in a slightly higher PAR than orange morphs. Leptastrea are also pretty good at letting you know they are in too little light as their colors will fade or in the case of some green morphs they will brown out. 100 PAR would be a good final position for most aquacultured colonies which is a moderate light level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea will benefit from enough flow to keep them clean and to ensure that detritus does not build up on top or around them. For this, a moderate, indirect flow pattern is best.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae. This coral may benefit from the addition of phytoplankton and other small morsels as a food source. They can more easily handle those smaller items although don’t be surprised to see one of those tiny polyps hanging onto a Mysis shrimp or a chunk of squid it has managed to snatch from the water column! There are plenty of foods that would be suitable on the market in either a dried or frozen form depending on your preference although in our experience a more concentrated dried formula initiates a better feeding response. You want something that is Zooplankton based and comprises of Rotifers, Cyclops or Copepods in either form.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are considering propagating these corals at home they make an excellent candidate for aquaculture. Initially they will encrust over new cuts and thinly spread out over their immediate surroundings but given time they will grow into larger boulder shapes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468613877990,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-polkaroo-leptastrea-40326061228262.jpg?v=1710620540"},{"product_id":"pineapple-favia","title":"Pineapple Favia","description":"\u003ch1\u003ePineapple Favia\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis Favia has bright, clean, green eyes and a green base. Frags of this Favia will be 5-7 eyes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFavia \u0026amp; Favites Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to diversity, it is hard to think of a more visually diverse group of corals than Favia. These brain corals develop multiple growth forms and come in just about every color and pattern imaginable. The diversity however is a little bit deceptive. Have you ever got the feeling that the term Favia covered a lot of corals that looked somewhat different? You are not alone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFavia brain corals were one of the largest categories of large polyp stony corals in the reef aquarium hobby. At one time there were nearly 100 species of Favia but now that number dwindled down to only two, Favia fragum, and Favia gravida, both of which are Caribbean species. That means that there are essentially zero Favia brains in the reef aquarium hobby because stony corals from the Caribbean are illegal to collect. So what happened to all these species of Favia? Coral taxonomists over the years reclassified them into other genera as more information was uncovered. Most of the corals that were once classified as Favia are now Dipsastraea, Goniastrea, Coelastrea, or Favites.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/MyiYPjCBlCw\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\" care=\"\" coral=\"\" brain=\"\" closed=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSo why we we still use the term “Favia?” We feel it is more important to use the term that the community is searching for when they are looking for help with their coral. In a way, the term Favia in the reef aquarium has turned into a term of art describing a group of “closed brain corals” similar to “Chalice Corals,” the difference being one is actually a scientific genus and the other is a common name. Like chalice corals, this collective of closed brain corals is ripe for misidentification especially considering many of the images online were published with either correct-at-the-time labeling or were totally misidentified from the start. It makes checking what you have in your tanks difficult. Naming conventions aside, let’s get into the husbandry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe primarily keep Favia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. We have kept them in higher lighting but they did not appear to appreciate it and were always at risk of bleaching out. If you have a colony of Favia and want to experiment with higher light, remember that it can be a risk, so be prepared to move it into a shadier region of the tank at the first signs of trouble. Remember that a coral can live for a long time in lighting conditions that are too dim, but they will not last long in lighting conditions that are too bright.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003eAs for how the lighting spectrum affects their coloration, most Favia stay pretty consistent and are not likely to change color dramatically with changes in lighting spectrum. You may see a subtle change comparing a specimen grown primarily under daylight vs blues however it won’t completely swap out an entire color palate like some corals are capable of. Because there are so many corals under this collective Favia umbrella, some may be very fluorescent which is a joy to look at under full actinic light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are some that consider water flow more important to coral health than any other parameter. It may be true in some cases, but I think that it is less of a factor in Favia health compared to other corals. Favia are tolerant to a wide range of flow patterns and adjusting flow specifically for Favia may be fruitless. I like to try and provide a very middle-of-the-road low to medium flow. Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Too much flow and you run the risk of damaging the coral. You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor feeding purposes I like being able to shut off all the flow for about 20-30 min to allow the colony to react to the food and consume it. Even a small amount of flow during spot feeding sessions can waste a lot of food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike most coral, Favia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. There are a variety of frozen fish foods available that make outstanding meals for Favia. We like to feed a mixture of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, and squid with vitamin additives and highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA). The size of the food must be small enough that the polyp can fully ingest it. Favites typically have smaller mouths than Favia.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-2-3.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFavites are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. In fact, Favites may have more aggressive behavior than the larger Favias. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defense against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematcysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Nw_q-6Eumwo\" title=\"Coral Aggression \u0026amp; Thoughts on Coral Placement\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAquaculture prospects for Favia are going to vary on a Genus to Genus basis. This is one aspect where lumping them all into one category doesn’t quite work out so well. Some varieties like Favites grow incredibly fast. Other varieties like Coelastrea are one of the slowest. That is the major hurdle with long term aquaculture - the growth rate of these corals. They can be cut pretty easily and heal well from cutting across the board but some might not be the best candidates for long term commercial aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"LPS Propagation - Favia Brain Coral\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/hse-zEoXfos\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5Ds R and 100mm macro lens. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468681609446,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-pineapple-favia-1125384240.jpg?v=1738728099"},{"product_id":"orange-rhodactis-mushrom","title":"Super Orange Rhodactis Mushroom","description":"\u003ch1\u003eSuper Orange Rhodactis Mushroom\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese Super Orange Rhodactis Mushroom are simply stunning! These frags have bright oranges and grows to large sizes. Frags will be a single polyp roughly 2\" - 3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"HISPRXX\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRICORDEA YUMA CARE\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRicordea yuma mushrooms are a Pacific species of corallimorph. Their body is covered with an irregular mat of short bubble-like tentacles and they come in a wide array of colors. Ricordea yuma can be sensitive and challenging so we do not recommend them for beginners. Please see below for additional care tips for Ricordea as well as checking out our\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-youtube\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003ciframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/_ug9aQFkYBo\" data-mce-src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/_ug9aQFkYBo\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"YTIKVON\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLOCATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRicordea yuma are found throughout the Indo-Pacific reefs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"R4Y8SOC\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column-group\" data-background-images=\"{}\" data-content-type=\"column-group\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-grid-size=\"12\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"A7I3IDW\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column-line\" data-content-type=\"column-line\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"OSLOR2N\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"pagebuilder-column\" data-content-type=\"column\" data-appearance=\"full-height\" data-background-images=\"{}\" data-element=\"main\" data-pb-style=\"EOL2ET0\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRicordea yuma mushrooms tend to do better under more intense lighting than their Caribbean siblings. Try keeping them in middle to high light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cimg height=\"42\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"346\" alt=\"\" data-mce-src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cimg height=\"42\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"345\" alt=\"\" data-mce-src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cimg height=\"39\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"344\" alt=\"\" data-mce-src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/lightbar\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWe recommend keeping the mushrooms in a relatively low flow area of the reef display. Too much flow could cause this particular species to become stressed and not extend fully or blow around the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eFEEDING\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eRicordea derives much of its energy from the products of their zooxanthellae. They can be fed small morsels of food however and may benefit from regular feeding.\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ccenter data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cimg height=\"119\" width=\"476\" src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/feeding\/feeding-2-3.jpg\" alt=\"Feeding\" data-mce-src=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/media\/wysiwyg\/descriptions\/feeding\/feeding-2-3.jpg\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/center\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePROPAGATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"block\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"widget block block-static-block\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-content-type=\"html\" data-appearance=\"default\" data-element=\"main\" data-decoded=\"true\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003cb data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eACCLIMATION\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" data-mce-href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468703629542,"sku":"","price":200.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-super-orange-rhodactis-mushroom-1125384287.jpg?v=1738724868"},{"product_id":"orange-lithophyllon","title":"Orange Lithophyllon","description":"\u003ch1\u003eOrange Lithophyllon\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis gorgeous bright Orange Lithophyllon coral accented with a splash of little green.  This coral is a true fluorescent orange and can be seen from across the room under some blue LEDs, or seen as a bright orange under more white colors. Lithophyllons are generally rarely imported, and if brought in are usually small hitchhikers in the color of brown or light green, both undesirable colors. This bright orange Lithophyllon with a splash of little green is a rare coloration when it comes to Lithophyllons. Although rare, Lithophyllons aren't very difficult to care for. They are essentially the low light version of Montiporas, where they encrust and use elements such Calcium and Alkalinity to grow. As long as you're experienced with testing for these parameters, you should do very well with these encrusting corals!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Lithophyllon is incredibly joyful and open, and it has amazing bright yellowish- orange coloring! These grow quite well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare level:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTemperature: 25-27 °C\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFood: None – Photosynthetic\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level: Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLighting: Moderate\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlacement: Bottom – Middle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTemperament: Semi-aggressive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWaterflow: Medium\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eExpect 2 ~ 3 cm Size per frag size .\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e** Photos is for reference of the species only, actual pcs will vary during shipment and color condition .\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Chemistry: \u003c\/strong\u003eIt is important that proper calcium (420-440 ppm), alkalinity (8-9.5 dkh – run it 7-8 if you are carbon dosing) , and magnesium levels (1260-1350 ppm) are maintained. Raising magnesium levels gradually up to 1400-1600 ppm can help to combat algae outbreaks, just keep CA and Alk in line as you raise the Mg.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNitrates should be below 10 ppm and phosphates should be below .10 ppm. We recommend doing a water change when Nitrate levels rise to 10 ppm. It is important to replace your phosphate media when phosphates rise to .10 ppm. Media Reactors make the most efficient use of your phosphate media by fluidizing it.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468807241958,"sku":"","price":250.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-orange-lithophyllon-40325275582694.jpg?v=1706255989"},{"product_id":"orange-leptastrea","title":"Orange Leptastrea","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"product-info-price\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper product\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"container\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 class=\"page-title\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eOrange \u0026amp; Green Leptastrea\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003eThis Leptastrea has a green base and bright golden orange polyps. Some specimens may also have purple edging to their polyps. When the polyps expand the base is not visible except on areas of new growth. Frags of this coral will be roughly 1\"+.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" itemprop=\"description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLeptastrea Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea are a relatively new species to the hobby and have never been a popular coral to the mainstream reef aquarist. They are a subtle short tentacled encrusting coral that appeal to veteran hobbyists that are looking for something different in their tanks. Novelty is a big thing when you have been in this hobby a long time and tanks start to suffer from sameness-syndrome. Sometimes a change of pace is necessary and uncommon corals like Leptastrea are just what the doctor ordered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Sug6MTUNj1A\" title=\"Leptastrea Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrior to 2012 Leptastrea were assigned to the Family Faviidae but they have since been reclassified as Scleractinia incertae sedis which is Latin for ‘uncertain placement’. This classification change is due to the Faviidae group being reanalyzed and it showing that it was actually a large group of corals without a common ancestry that had been grouped together and is now being separated out. Such is the nature of coral classifications – they are ever changing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lighting requirements for Leptastrea depend in large part on the particular color morph. Generally speaking, Leptastrea do not like direct, intense light. Their color will be the best indicator of the position they prefer with green morphs tending to do better in a slightly higher PAR than orange morphs. Leptastrea are also pretty good at letting you know they are in too little light as their colors will fade or in the case of some green morphs they will brown out. 100 PAR would be a good final position for most aquacultured colonies which is a moderate light level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea will benefit from enough flow to keep them clean and to ensure that detritus does not build up on top or around them. For this, a moderate, indirect flow pattern is best.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeptastrea relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae. This coral may benefit from the addition of phytoplankton and other small morsels as a food source. They can more easily handle those smaller items although don’t be surprised to see one of those tiny polyps hanging onto a Mysis shrimp or a chunk of squid it has managed to snatch from the water column! There are plenty of foods that would be suitable on the market in either a dried or frozen form depending on your preference although in our experience a more concentrated dried formula initiates a better feeding response. You want something that is Zooplankton based and comprises of Rotifers, Cyclops or Copepods in either form.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are considering propagating these corals at home they make an excellent candidate for aquaculture. Initially they will encrust over new cuts and thinly spread out over their immediate surroundings but given time they will grow into larger boulder shapes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43468816711910,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-orange-leptastrea-1125384239.jpg?v=1738728096"},{"product_id":"orange-eye-acanthastrea-echinata","title":"Orange Eye Acanthastrea Echinata","description":"\u003ch1\u003eOrange Eye \u003cspan class=\"base\" data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" itemprop=\"name\"\u003eAcanthastrea \u003c\/span\u003eEchinata\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis Acanthastrea echinata is a wonderful color combo green \u0026amp; blue base and orange eyes. This WYSIWYG large frag is roughly 1.5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcanthastrea Echinata Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcanthastrea as a genus got considerably smaller recently when the Acanthastrea lordhowensis got reclassified as a Micromussa lordhowensis. That leaves the echinata and bowerbanki as the most commonly seen species of Acans in the reef keeping hobby. Acanthastrea bowerbanki have the largest polyps of any Acans. These Acans do not have any special care requirements however they have a strong sting so it is advisable to give them plenty of space in your aquascape. Please see below for additional care tips for Acans as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Acanthastrea Corals in the Reef Aquarium Hobby\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/9vnN52YKaWM\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Caution\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is important to note that this coral is aggressive to other Acans. They cannot be kept in contact with other types of Acanthastrea.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcanthastrea can be kept under a variety of light conditions ranging from dim to medium-high lighting. Here we have them under very low light T5 bulbs and relatively low light LED's. It is important to note that these LPS change color dramatically depending on the light they are provided. Despite the change in appearance from light, it does not appear to affect the health of the coral, just the aesthetics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe recommend keeping the coral in a low to medium flow area of the reef display. Too much flow could cause this particular species to become stressed and not extend fully. Lower flow also provides more opportunities for feeding which we feel is an important part of keeping Acans healthy.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcanthastrea in our opinion must be fed for long-term health. There are a variety of frozen fish foods available that make outstanding meals for Acans. We like to feed a mixture of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, and squid with vitamin additives and highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA). Our Acans almost always have their feeding tentacles out (even during the daytime), which we view is a sign of good health.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-3-4.jpg\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of propagation, this genus has been successfully fragmented. If you are interested in propagating them, take a look at our Acan propagation video below. The coral in the video is a Micromussa lord, but the same sort of care applies to echinata.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/GsfBjsPavJw\" title=\"Acanthastrea Coral Care and Propagation\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43475472318694,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-orange-eye-acanthastrea-echinata-1125384238.jpg?v=1738728093"},{"product_id":"orange-blastomussa-wellsi","title":"Orange Blastomussa Wellsi","description":"\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eOrange Blastomussa Wellsi\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThis Blastomussa wellsi has a clean orange body We have farmed this strain for quite a while. This WYSIWYG frag is a single large polyp.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cb\u003eBlastomussa Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are an interesting stony coral because from afar they resemble mushroom corallimorphs. They are a relatively easy coral to care for with modest requirements for both flow and light. In fact, we have found they tend to do best in low light conditions. They are also easy to feed and later propagate making them a great choice for reef aquarists looking to try some of the more exotic large polyp stony corals. Please see below for additional care tips for Blastomussa as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"A secret crush on Blastomussa Pineapple Corals\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gwJu2kKOFNU\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlastomussa are one of the few corals that appreciate very dim light. We have seen them expand better and take on much more vibrant colors under subdued lighting while struggling greatly under bright lights. When overexposed portions of their polyp may become unnaturally inflated or even develop bubbles inside their flesh. If you have a reef tank with modest lighting, Blastomussa may be right up your alley.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerate water movement is recommended. Blastomussa do not seem particularly picky on the type of flow they receive. We have kept them in both low and strong flow reef aquariums without significant differences in health.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike many of our other LPS, we strongly believe that feeding is a major key to the long term success of keeping Blastos. Blastomussa can be fed a mix of meaty foods such as pieces of krill or mysis shrimp.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-3-4.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of propagation, Blastomussa have been successfully fragmented and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43475553026278,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-orange-blastomussa-wellsi-1125384237.jpg?v=1738728311"},{"product_id":"neon-green-birds-nest-seriatopora","title":"Neon Green Bird's Nest Seriatopora","description":"\u003ch1\u003eNeon Green Bird's Nest Seriatopora\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Neon Green Bird's Nest is a great entry-level SPS that grows very quickly and fluoresces brightly under actinic lighting. Frags of this coral are roughly 1\" with several branches.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eBird’s Nest Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBird’s Nest Corals are some of the fastest growing SPS corals. They benefit from strong flow however their lighting requirements vary from colony to colony. In our experience, the pink varieties enjoy higher lighting conditions than the others. The yellow bird’s nest actually prefers subdued lighting. Once settled in, these corals take on incredible colors and can be propagated sustainably. Please see below for additional care tips for Seriatopora Bird’s Nest Corals as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Seriatopora Bird's Nest Corals\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/As6CkFASoOk\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e \u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIntense lighting is recommended for best coloration and overall health. Use either Metal Halide lighting or a large bank of high output fluorescent or full-spectrum LED's. Seriatopora can survive under more modest lighting, but their colors may fade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStrong water movement is recommended. Once the Bird's Nest gets larger, it needs more and more flow to reach the polyps in the center of the colony.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeriatopora relies heavily on the products of their zooxanthellae but also may feed on phytoplankton and similarly sized microfauna in the water column.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" width=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis genus for the most part has been propagated extensively in captivity and is an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. Seriatopora are brittle and can break during shipping, but the broken pieces can all be re-glued to form new colonies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5D mk II and 100mm macro lens under T5 Fluorescent lighting. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCredits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" title=\"Tidal Gardens\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43475664339174,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-neon-green-bird-s-nest-seriatopora-40354115289318.jpg?v=1706352396"},{"product_id":"mystic-blueberry-ice-favia","title":"Mystic Blueberry Ice Favia","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\" data-mce-style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003eMystic Blueberry Ice Favia\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe new Mystic Blueberry Ice Favia is a brilliant colored blue and red Favia similar to the Limited Edition Ice Fire Favia from Atlantis Aquarium. Its blue however is slightly more pastel and that helps give the coral its Blueberry Ice appearance. Each corallite also develops a unique pattern or combination of dark red and pink. Some corallites are half pink and half red. Some corallites are solid red, while others contain a random pattern of distinct red and pink areas. The outer corallite ridges are always Blueberry colored, but some inner corallites develop a dark red inner ridge.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFavia \u0026amp; Favites Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to diversity, it is hard to think of a more visually diverse group of corals than Favia. These brain corals develop multiple growth forms and come in just about every color and pattern imaginable. The diversity however is a little bit deceptive. Have you ever got the feeling that the term Favia covered a lot of corals that looked somewhat different? You are not alone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFavia brain corals were one of the largest categories of large polyp stony corals in the reef aquarium hobby. At one time there were nearly 100 species of Favia but now that number dwindled down to only two, Favia fragum, and Favia gravida, both of which are Caribbean species. That means that there are essentially zero Favia brains in the reef aquarium hobby because stony corals from the Caribbean are illegal to collect. So what happened to all these species of Favia? Coral taxonomists over the years reclassified them into other genera as more information was uncovered. Most of the corals that were once classified as Favia are now Dipsastraea, Goniastrea, Coelastrea, or Favites.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/MyiYPjCBlCw\" title=\"\" closed=\"\" brain=\"\" coral=\"\" care=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSo why we we still use the term “Favia?” We feel it is more important to use the term that the community is searching for when they are looking for help with their coral. In a way, the term Favia in the reef aquarium has turned into a term of art describing a group of “closed brain corals” similar to “Chalice Corals,” the difference being one is actually a scientific genus and the other is a common name. Like chalice corals, this collective of closed brain corals is ripe for misidentification especially considering many of the images online were published with either correct-at-the-time labeling or were totally misidentified from the start. It makes checking what you have in your tanks difficult. Naming conventions aside, let’s get into the husbandry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe primarily keep Favia in low to medium light intensity here at Tidal Gardens which is around 50 to 100 PAR. We have kept them in higher lighting but they did not appear to appreciate it and were always at risk of bleaching out. If you have a colony of Favia and want to experiment with higher light, remember that it can be a risk, so be prepared to move it into a shadier region of the tank at the first signs of trouble. Remember that a coral can live for a long time in lighting conditions that are too dim, but they will not last long in lighting conditions that are too bright.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"data item content\" id=\"product.info.description\" data-role=\"content\" aria-labelledby=\"tab-label-product.info.description\" role=\"tabpanel\" aria-hidden=\"false\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute description\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are some that consider water flow more important to coral health than any other parameter. It may be true in some cases, but I think that it is less of a factor in Favia health compared to other corals. Favia are tolerant to a wide range of flow patterns and adjusting flow specifically for Favia may be fruitless. I like to try and provide a very middle-of-the-road low to medium flow. Too little flow and you run the risk of allowing detritus to settle on the colonies which creates dead spots. Too much flow and you run the risk of damaging the coral. You will know if you are overdoing it if the flow is slamming one side of the coral and it is drawn tight to the skeleton all the time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor feeding purposes I like being able to shut off all the flow for about 20-30 min to allow the colony to react to the food and consume it. Even a small amount of flow during spot feeding sessions can waste a lot of food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike most coral, Favia rely to a large extent on the products of their zooxanthellae, however, in our experience, they also benefit from direct feeding. There are a variety of frozen fish foods available that make outstanding meals for Favia. We like to feed a mixture of meaty foods such as shrimp, fish, and squid with vitamin additives and highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA). The size of the food must be small enough that the polyp can fully ingest it. Favites typically have smaller mouths than Favia.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-2-3.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eA Word of Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFavites are one of the corals that extends long sweeper tentacles. In fact, Favites may have more aggressive behavior than the larger Favias. Sweeper tentacles are often used as a means of defense against other encroaching coral colonies. Their white tips contain a concentration of nematcysts that can damage more delicate tank mates. Most of the time, this is not a major problem but to be safe, we recommend placing it in a location far from other corals initially.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Coral Aggression \u0026amp; Thoughts on Coral Placement\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Nw_q-6Eumwo\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAquaculture prospects for Favia are going to vary on a Genus to Genus basis. This is one aspect where lumping them all into one category doesn’t quite work out so well. Some varieties like Favites grow incredibly fast. Other varieties like Coelastrea are one of the slowest. That is the major hurdle with long term aquaculture - the growth rate of these corals. They can be cut pretty easily and heal well from cutting across the board but some might not be the best candidates for long term commercial aquaculture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/hse-zEoXfos\" title=\"LPS Propagation - Favia Brain Coral\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5Ds R and 100mm macro lens. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"data item content\" id=\"product.info.description\" data-role=\"content\" aria-labelledby=\"tab-label-product.info.description\" role=\"tabpanel\" aria-hidden=\"false\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute description\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43479462314214,"sku":"","price":150.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-mystic-blueberry-ice-favia-1125384235.jpg?v=1738728303"},{"product_id":"money-shot-zoanthids","title":"Money Shot Zoanthids","description":"\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003eMoney Shot Zoanthids\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOur Fantastic Money Shots have a multicolored mouth that differs polyp to polyp and is surrounded by layers of purple and green that terminates into a green skirt. The array of colors in this Zoanthid make it a must-have classic. Frags of these awesome Zoas will be 3-5 polyps.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e \u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthus Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are a large group of corals in the reef keeping hobby. They come in an incredible range of colors and patterns making them very popular with both beginner hobbyists and rare coral collectors tracking down uncommon color morphs. In terms of care, both Zoanthus and Palythoa are fairly easy to keep. They tolerate a wide range of lighting intensities and water conditions. Once settled in, zoas multiply quickly. Please see below for more care tips for Zoas and Palys as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-container\"\u003e\n\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gyhRuk74kyA\" title=\"Zoanthus Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-container\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthid Taxonomy and Identification\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus are a genus of corals within the order Zoantharia, an order it shares with\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/button-polyps-palythoa.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePalythoa\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eand\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/yellow-polyps-parazoanthus.html\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eParazoanthus\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e. You may have also heard zoanthus referred to as zoanthids which is correct, but if you want to be a stickler for details, the term zoanthids refers to all the corals in the order while zoanthus is specific to the genus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is quite a lot of active research on Zoanthid taxonomy and the cutting edge is DNA classification. It is not nearly as straight forward as it may seem. There is a LOT of genetic consistency so it is a chore to find small segments of DNA that are actually different enough to base a scientific classification on. Over 90% of the coral’s genome is identical so a lot of current research is delving into that. Genetic research is further complicated by the effect the environment has on the expression of the genetic code. The genes themselves don’t change but the how the organism reads the genetic code in response to the environment does so you could see two very different traits in corals originate from an identical genetic sequence. I expect quite a lot of reclassification to occur in this space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat was once 300 identified species has been whittled down to around 50-60 in the past several years depending on the criteria used to differentiate the different morphs. There are new classification insights as more genetic testing is being done, but for the purposes of this hobby-focused website, we've chosen to arbitrarily lump larger polyp individuals into Palythoa and smaller polyp specimens into Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical matter, there is some degree of fogginess you will encounter in this industry whether something is called a Zoanthus or a Palythoa because there is a wide range of physical variation within the genus. On the far ends of the spectrum the two are easy to differentiate but once you get into large polyp Zoanthus variants and smaller polyp Palythoa variants, the naming convention breaks down at the hobbyist level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePalytoxin Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore we get into the care tips for zoas, I need to address the potential toxicity of these corals. Some can contain a compound called palytoxin that is a very dangerous poison. Palytoxin is associated more with Palythoa than Zoanthus, but it is possible for zoas to have it. I don’t know if those zoas produce it themselves or acquire it from neighboring Palythoa. In the wild, palytoxin shows up in organisms that don’t actively produce it such as sponges, mussels, and starfish but live in close proximity to palythoa. It can even be found in other species up the food chain such as crabs and fish through biomagnification. I’ll touch on this again when we discuss pests, because as lethal as palytoxin is, there is no shortage of organisms that are more than happy to consume them with no ill effects.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe scientific community has been aware of palytoxin since the 1960’s but it has been used as a means of biological warfare by Polynesian cultures for much longer. There is a legend of a sacred seaweed that grew in a special pool that when applied to a warrior’s spear would bring sure death to his enemies. In 1961 researchers tracked down the fabled pool in Maui and found colonies of Palythoa toxica.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt wasn’t until the 1990’s that the mechanism of action was identified. Palytoxin binds to the sodium potassium pump on the membrane of cells. If you don’t remember what this is from high school biology, the sodium potassium pump is REALLY important to ion movement in and out of the cell and affects all sorts of biological processes so any interruption of that royally screws things up. It is why the symptoms of palytoxin poisoning are seemingly all-inclusive. Initially there was some skepticism regarding this mechanism of action but it was confirmed in 1995 in a pretty clever study. They exposed yeast cells to palytoxin because yeast cells don’t have a sodium potassium pump. Those yeast cells were unaffected but when given to yeast cells that researchers genetically modified to encode a sheep’s sodium potassium pump, all the cells died.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIn practice you are not likely to get palytoxin poisoning just by having zoas or palythoa in your home aquarium. It resides in the flesh of the coral so it becomes an issue when the colony is damaged. People have gotten sick from scrubbing palythoa off of rocks or propagating a colony with a band saw that would send the particles airborne and then inhaled. People have also gotten sick by boiling rocks with colonies on it because that too sends the compounds airborne and unlike many other proteins, palytoxin does not lose its toxicity when heated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are not as demanding as other corals when it comes to lighting. They can be kept under a wide variety of lighting types, and are tolerant of both low and high light conditions. It is always wise however to acclimate new arrivals in lower light areas because it is far more likely to be damaged from overexposure than starve from underexposure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus by their very shape invite detritus accumulation and a zoa colony that is dirty is very different than one that is kept clean. The buildup of detritus can slow a colony’s growth or even cause it to die back.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eStrong water flow helps keep detritus buildup to a minimum as well as flushing away waste that the colony generates.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhen designing flow patterns for this coral I like to provide strong consistent flow with short bursts of very strong flow. If you do jot have controllable pumps to achieve this it can be done manually with a turkey baster. Once a day you can squirt water at the colony to dislodge any buildup. I use just enough force to close the polyps up.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIf you decide to go this route only do this with established colonies that are well attached. If you have a freshly glued frag of zoas they might get blown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile both Zoanthus and Palythoa polyps derive much of their energy from the products of their zooxanthellae, they do have the ability to capture prey. Palythoa seem to feed much more readily than their Zoanthus counterparts.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe try to feed a blend of small frozen foods such as the fines from mysis shrimp, cyclops plankton, and frozen rotifers. We have also tried feeding a variety of powdered dry plankton. Your mileage may vary depending on the species of zoa you have and also how you are doing the feeding. As I mentioned they are not nearly as good a feeder as palythoa so they might not be able to grab chunks of food out of the water. I try to turn the pumps off and then give them a good dusting of food and let them sit for about 10 min before restarting the pumps. Take a look at the feeding video below.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthid Polyp Feeding\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/wDabUHE73PY\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Zoas and Palys for the most part have been propagated extensively in captivity and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. Take a look at the propagation video below for tips on how to frag Palythoa and Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/pe0AJVpl480\" title=\"Zoanthid and Palythoa Coral Propagation\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43479525851366,"sku":"","price":100.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-money-shot-zoanthids-40324819288294.jpg?v=1705912818"},{"product_id":"magician-zoanthids","title":"Magician Zoanthids","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"product-info-price\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"page-title-wrapper product\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"container\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 style=\"text-align: center;\" class=\"page-title\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan data-ui-id=\"page-title-wrapper\" class=\"base\" itemprop=\"name\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eMagician Zoanthids\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product attribute overview\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThe Magician Zoanthids have an incredible blue sparkle pattern at the center of their face. This polyp is one of my personal favorites. Typical frags have 3 polyps.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3 class=\"value\" itemprop=\"description\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthus Coral Care\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are a large group of corals in the reef keeping hobby. They come in an incredible range of colors and patterns making them very popular with both beginner hobbyists and rare coral collectors tracking down uncommon color morphs. In terms of care, both Zoanthus and Palythoa are fairly easy to keep. They tolerate a wide range of lighting intensities and water conditions. Once settled in, zoas multiply quickly. Please see below for more care tips for Zoas and Palys as well as checking out our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/how-to-set-up-a-reef-tank\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eTop 5 Tips\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003efor setting up a reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-container\"\u003e\n\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gyhRuk74kyA\" title=\"Zoanthus Coral Care Tips\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"embed-container\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eZoanthid Taxonomy and Identification\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus are a genus of corals within the order Zoantharia, an order it shares with\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/button-polyps-palythoa.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePalythoa\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eand\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/corals\/zoanthids\/yellow-polyps-parazoanthus.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eParazoanthus\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e. You may have also heard zoanthus referred to as zoanthids which is correct, but if you want to be a stickler for details, the term zoanthids refers to all the corals in the order while zoanthus is specific to the genus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is quite a lot of active research on Zoanthid taxonomy and the cutting edge is DNA classification. It is not nearly as straight forward as it may seem. There is a LOT of genetic consistency so it is a chore to find small segments of DNA that are actually different enough to base a scientific classification on. Over 90% of the coral’s genome is identical so a lot of current research is delving into that. Genetic research is further complicated by the effect the environment has on the expression of the genetic code. The genes themselves don’t change but the how the organism reads the genetic code in response to the environment does so you could see two very different traits in corals originate from an identical genetic sequence. I expect quite a lot of reclassification to occur in this space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat was once 300 identified species has been whittled down to around 50-60 in the past several years depending on the criteria used to differentiate the different morphs. There are new classification insights as more genetic testing is being done, but for the purposes of this hobby-focused website, we've chosen to arbitrarily lump larger polyp individuals into Palythoa and smaller polyp specimens into Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical matter, there is some degree of fogginess you will encounter in this industry whether something is called a Zoanthus or a Palythoa because there is a wide range of physical variation within the genus. On the far ends of the spectrum the two are easy to differentiate but once you get into large polyp Zoanthus variants and smaller polyp Palythoa variants, the naming convention breaks down at the hobbyist level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePalytoxin Warning\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore we get into the care tips for zoas, I need to address the potential toxicity of these corals. Some can contain a compound called palytoxin that is a very dangerous poison. Palytoxin is associated more with Palythoa than Zoanthus, but it is possible for zoas to have it. I don’t know if those zoas produce it themselves or acquire it from neighboring Palythoa. In the wild, palytoxin shows up in organisms that don’t actively produce it such as sponges, mussels, and starfish but live in close proximity to palythoa. It can even be found in other species up the food chain such as crabs and fish through biomagnification. I’ll touch on this again when we discuss pests, because as lethal as palytoxin is, there is no shortage of organisms that are more than happy to consume them with no ill effects.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe scientific community has been aware of palytoxin since the 1960’s but it has been used as a means of biological warfare by Polynesian cultures for much longer. There is a legend of a sacred seaweed that grew in a special pool that when applied to a warrior’s spear would bring sure death to his enemies. In 1961 researchers tracked down the fabled pool in Maui and found colonies of Palythoa toxica.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt wasn’t until the 1990’s that the mechanism of action was identified. Palytoxin binds to the sodium potassium pump on the membrane of cells. If you don’t remember what this is from high school biology, the sodium potassium pump is REALLY important to ion movement in and out of the cell and affects all sorts of biological processes so any interruption of that royally screws things up. It is why the symptoms of palytoxin poisoning are seemingly all-inclusive. Initially there was some skepticism regarding this mechanism of action but it was confirmed in 1995 in a pretty clever study. They exposed yeast cells to palytoxin because yeast cells don’t have a sodium potassium pump. Those yeast cells were unaffected but when given to yeast cells that researchers genetically modified to encode a sheep’s sodium potassium pump, all the cells died.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIn practice you are not likely to get palytoxin poisoning just by having zoas or palythoa in your home aquarium. It resides in the flesh of the coral so it becomes an issue when the colony is damaged. People have gotten sick from scrubbing palythoa off of rocks or propagating a colony with a band saw that would send the particles airborne and then inhaled. People have also gotten sick by boiling rocks with colonies on it because that too sends the compounds airborne and unlike many other proteins, palytoxin does not lose its toxicity when heated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eLighting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus and Palythoa are not as demanding as other corals when it comes to lighting. They can be kept under a wide variety of lighting types, and are tolerant of both low and high light conditions. It is always wise however to acclimate new arrivals in lower light areas because it is far more likely to be damaged from overexposure than starve from underexposure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-low.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow light translates to about 30-50 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMedium Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-mid.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMedium Light is between 50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh Light\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/tg-lightbar-high.png\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Light is anything over 150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLighting is a loaded topic, so for a more in-depth discussion of lighting, please see our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/deep-dive-reef-aquarium-lighting\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eDeep Dive\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003earticle.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater Flow\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eZoanthus by their very shape invite detritus accumulation and a zoa colony that is dirty is very different than one that is kept clean. The buildup of detritus can slow a colony’s growth or even cause it to die back.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eStrong water flow helps keep detritus buildup to a minimum as well as flushing away waste that the colony generates.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhen designing flow patterns for this coral I like to provide strong consistent flow with short bursts of very strong flow. If you do jot have controllable pumps to achieve this it can be done manually with a turkey baster. Once a day you can squirt water at the colony to dislodge any buildup. I use just enough force to close the polyps up.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIf you decide to go this route only do this with established colonies that are well attached. If you have a freshly glued frag of zoas they might get blown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eFeeding\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile both Zoanthus and Palythoa polyps derive much of their energy from the products of their zooxanthellae, they do have the ability to capture prey. Palythoa seem to feed much more readily than their Zoanthus counterparts.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/pub\/media\/wysiwyg\/feeding-1-2.jpg\" width=\"450\" alt=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe try to feed a blend of small frozen foods such as the fines from mysis shrimp, cyclops plankton, and frozen rotifers. We have also tried feeding a variety of powdered dry plankton. Your mileage may vary depending on the species of zoa you have and also how you are doing the feeding. As I mentioned they are not nearly as good a feeder as palythoa so they might not be able to grab chunks of food out of the water. I try to turn the pumps off and then give them a good dusting of food and let them sit for about 10 min before restarting the pumps. Take a look at the feeding video below.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"Zoanthid Polyp Feeding\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/wDabUHE73PY\" height=\"350\" width=\"500\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePropagation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Zoas and Palys for the most part have been propagated extensively in captivity and are an excellent candidate for aquaculture. It is reasonable to believe that a sustainable harvest can be achieved in time. Take a look at the propagation video below for tips on how to frag Palythoa and Zoanthus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/pe0AJVpl480\" title=\"Zoanthid and Palythoa Coral Propagation\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003eAcclimation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProper acclimation is extremely important considering the stress imposed on the animals by the shipping process. Please take a moment to review our\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/proper-coral-acclimation-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eAcclimation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cb\u003ePhotography\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe images were taken with a Canon 5Ds R and 100mm macro lens. The lighting we shoot under varies depending on the tank. At this time T5 produce the best results. Quite a lot goes into how we go about shooting the corals and anemones you see on Tidal Gardens. For an in-depth look at our methods, check out our comprehensive\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/reef-aquarium-photography-faq\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eReef Aquarium Photography FAQ\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCredits: \u003ca title=\"Tidal Gardens\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.tidalgardens.com\/\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BPK","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43479577395430,"sku":"","price":180.0,"currency_code":"AED","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0363\/3361\/7287\/files\/bpk-live-stock-magician-zoanthids-1125384234.jpg?v=1738728663"}],"url":"https:\/\/petstore.ae\/collections\/live-corals.oembed?page=4","provider":"PetStore.ae","version":"1.0","type":"link"}